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BULBS 

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



GROWING 
BULBS 



THE TWENTIETH CENTURY METHOD 



GROWING BULBS 



FOR 



WINTER AND SPRING 
BLOOMING 



By 

MAURICE FULD 



PUBLISHED BY 
THE HOME OF HEATHER 

KNIGHT A>rD STEITCK COMPANY 

ONE MADISON AVENUE 

NEW YORK 






^^-'^f^ 



Copyright, 1914 
By MAURICE FULD 



AUG 10 1914 



G1,A379189 



CAULON PRESS 
NEW YORK 



Dedicated to my best friend, 

who first inspired me with the love of flowers— 

MY MOTHER. 



INDEX 

Pages 

INDOOR DEPARTMENT 9 

Growing Bulbs for the Dwelling House 11 

1. In Soil and Pots 11 to 19 

2. In Fibre 19 to 22 

3. In Water and Pebbles 22, 23 

4. In Moss 24 

5. As Air Plants 24, 25 

Growing Bulbs for the Conservatory 25 to 36 

OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 37 

The Ornamental Garden 39, 40 

The Country Garden 40 to 43 

The Hardy Border 43 to 47 

The Rockgarden 47, 48 

The Meadow or Lawn 48, 49 

The Woods 49 

The Lake and Brookside 49, 50 

The Winter Garden 50 

THE FAMILY OF BULBS 51 

A to D 53 to 62 

E to H 62 to 67 

I to M 67 to 71 

N to R 71 to 73 

S to W. 73 to 78 



IN submitting to the American Garden enthusiast a thorough trea- 
tise on the growing of Winter and Spring flowering bulbs, I do so 

with the knowledge that this is the first book of its kind ever 
published wherein the amateur or non-professional gardener can 
truly find the pathway to a better understanding of this valuable and 
popular family of flowers. 

May the enthusiasm which I have allowed to run rampant from 
my pen have the result of instilling a greater love for these flowers 
into the hearts of my readers and may the army of flower-lovers be 
augmented a thousand fold by those who through coming in contact 
with this book find the pastime of gjrowing flowers the stepping stone 
to happiness and joy. 

Treating my subject solely for the benefit of the amateur, the 
suggestions and recommendations as given in this book would not 
help the person who wishes to grow these flowers on a commercial 
basis or for profit. 

To make this treatise thoroughly practical and easy for reference, 
certain subdivisions were necessary and I hope will be welcomed as 
a step in a progressive direction. 

This volume contains no reference to bulbs which are commonly 
cultivated for Summer flowering and which as a rule are planted in 
the Spring, nor do I claim for my book that it includes every species 
of the very class which I am describing, for I have intentionally 
omitted such species as are difficult to grow, or which do not suit 
the American climate or have become unpopular. 

MAURICE FULD. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 



THE dismal, cheerless winter I — an expression frequently heard 
from the lips of some people, who evidently have never experi- 
enced the immeasurable pleasure that would be theirs if they 
grew a few bulbs to bloom during the winter. We may all love our 
spring, summer and fall garden, but let me gaze at that first paper- 
white Narcissus, which I planted in September, and which unfolds 
about Thanksgiving Day, and I would willingly exchange all other 
pleasure for it. Nothing can appeal more strongly to my heart than 
the plant which I set with my own hands and of which I see the 
constant progress, caring for it daily and watching it advance to its 
climax — the unfolding and coloring of its buds. Oh, what a world 
of rapturous joy it spells! — the banishing of gloom, grouch and lone- 
liness, and in their place come sunshine, happiness, joy, health, wealth, 
the glow in the cheeks, smiles and peace! 

There is no reason why with little expense one cannot enjoy 
a veritable winter garden, where one can roam amongst the flowers 
as freely as if it were June, and what a blessing it must be to people 
who are compelled to live in city dwellings and who by this method 
get all the fun of gardening. This does not mean the preaching of 
a new doctrine; winter-gardening with bulbs has been practiced even 
in America as long as bulbs have been known, but the "how" and 
"when" has never been thoroughly explained in the present-day lit- 
erature on this subject. 

"Success" from the first is a great inspiration to the beginner 
and encourages him to go deeper into his favorite study; it fills him 
with enthusiasm to such a degree that he will try his utmost to interest 
others in the work until the whole universe will be a garden of flowers. 

It is my aim to make this story so attractive and so complete 
that those who read must try the experiment and those who try it 
must succeed. 



Growing Bulbs for the 
Dwelling House 

THE word "indoor" comprises really two distinct departments; 
namely, (1) the regular dwelling and (2) the conservatory. The 
cultures for both vary so greatly that it would be impossible 
to combine them in one treatise, and for this reason the separation 
of this chapter. Bulbs can be grown, even for the dwelling, in five 
distinct ways, namely: 

1. In soil and pots. 

2. In fibre and vases. 

3. In water and pebbles. 

4. In moss exclusively. 

5. As air plants. 

In submitting a detailed story for each, I am simply doing what 
is absolutely necessary to guide my reader into the path of success, 
for if failures have existed in the past it has been due to too much 
taking for granted. As I want this book to serve those who know 
absolutely nothing on the subject as well as others more experienced, 
I have another reason for treating my subject thoroughly, and I 
simply mention this to avoid criticism. 

1. In Soil and Pots. 

This is the universal, most natural, and most successful method. 
In considering this method the following concrete matters should 
arrest our attention and consideration: (a) Bulbs, (b) Soil, (c) Re- 
ceptacle, (d) Storage place for Rooting, (e) The proper place to 
bring the flower to maturity. 

a. BULBS. — This word embraces a great family of flowers and 
is often misused, so in writing this book I have considered it advisable 
not to change the order of things as they are in general. Many 
plants which produce rhyzomes at their base are called "bulbous" 
here, as this term is given them in many seed books. The word 
"bulb" in itself, though, should instantly impress one with confidence, 
for when we handle a well matured bulb we are holding in our hand 
a shell containing a completely perfected plant in miniature, where 
every minute detail is already worked out (this to my mind is the 
most glorious thing in nature), and all that we have to do is to 
provide the best possible conditions resembling those of nature to 
enlarge and perfect what has been prepared for us. For this reason 
alone a failure with bulbs should be an impossibility. Not all varie- 
ties of bulbs can be used for house culture and herein lies the cause 
of certain failures. To give here a complete list of available varieties 
is impossible, but under the heading of each class of bulbs I am 
again referring to this special point, and so in a selection of suitable 
material for house culture one should read this book through before 
beginning the task. 

The quaUty of the bulb used for this purpose should be the very 
best, for you cannot produce good results from inferior bulbs. It is 
utterly impossible for me to be too emphatic on this point, a point 



12 GROWING BULBS 

which at no time has received serious consideration from the Ameri- 
can gardening public. This in itself is responsible for the deplorable 
fact that Holland and other bulb centers on the Continent have for 
years past used the American market for the dumping ground of 
all the most undesirable stock. The Hollander will sell you bulbs 
at as many different prices as you are willing to pay, and I must 
even allow that he is perfectly honorable about it, for he is frank 
enough to tell you that you are receiving just exactly what you pay 
for. Cheap bulbs are always expensive, for they require the same 
amount of care, labor and time to produce results. It is not to be 
taken for granted that the largest bulb is the most perfect, for size 
often is a deceiving point. Plumpness, weight, solidity and age are 
the factors which sum up "perfection." Some of the finest varieties 
of Hyacinths never produce extra large sized bulbs, yet the flower 
produced from what may appear to be a medium sized bulb is larger 
and superior in every way. 

b. SOIL. — The ideal potting soil for most all bulbs mentioned 
in this book is that taken from a soil heap which has been especially 
prepared a year or eighteen months before the time of planting. 
A soil heap is undoubtedly the most necessary, useful and handy 
material, a requisite which no gardener should be without. 

A soil heap is made by using solid layers of the following mate- 
rials in rotation: 

1. Turned-over sod. 

2. Good garden soil. 

3. Sharp sand. 

4. Leaf mould. 

5. Decayed stable manure. 

6. All kinds of green forage, such as lawn clippings, unusable 
vegetables, refuse from the kitchen, dahlia foliage and stalks, in fact 
anything in fresh vegetation that you wish to discard, except diseased 
plants. 

7. Thin dustings of ground bone and lime between every other 
layer. 

In the making of the soil heap layers of sod should be more fre- 
quent than the other material. The best time to make a soil heap 
is in the spring; for fully 12 months it should remain undisturbed, 
but the following spring it should be completely turned several times 
to thoroughly mix the different ingredients. Between spring and 
fall of the second year the heap should be turned at least twice again, 
and just before use, the quantity required should be thrown through 
a sieve to remove any lumps or stones. 

Wherever the making of a soil heap in advance is impossible the 
following composition of soil can be used and the mixing of same can 
take place at the time of potting: 

Good live garden loam 1/3 

Leaf mould ) j /, 

Well decayed stable manure ) ' 

Sharp sand 1/3 

People who do not own gardens can purchase the right kind 
of soil from their seedsman. Reliable seedsmen will furnish the very 
soil described for the soil heap at a most moderate price. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 13 

At no time should anyone resort to use soil which has been 
used or is spent, for such soil as a rule is void of life and to use it 
would invite failure from the start. Many people have an idea that 
they can use the soil which has been in the window-box all summer. 
Nothing could be more detrimental. 

c. RECEPTACLE.— With this method the porous earthen pot 
or pan is the most satisfactory receptacle to use; but almost every 
variety of bulb requires a different sized pot, according to the number 
of bulbs desired in a pot. 

There are but few bulbs which look well grown singly in a pot. 
The following would suit for this purpose: Dutch Hyacinths, Callas, 
Lilies and Cyclamen. All others look best when grown in numbers in 
either six-inch or eight-inch or ten-inch pan. If the above mentioned 
four bulbs were grown singly in a pot, the Hyacinth would require a 
five-inch or perhaps a six-inch pot; Callas, according to size, require 
from a six-inch to nine-inch pot; Lilies from a five-inch to eight-inch 
pot, according to size of bulb, and Cyclamen about a five-inch pot. 
^ The most satisfactory method for a beginner is to first purchase 

his bulbs and when they have been received to unpack them and lay 
each sort upon the table so that he can intelligently plan for the size 
of pot or pan, and then to figure his requirements. No set rule can 
be given as to how many Hyacinths can be planted in a six-inch pan, 
for it depends entirely on the size of the bulbs. The knowledge that 
the bulbs are first size or second size is of no help, for second size 
bulbs of a certain variety can be larger than first size bulbs of another 
sort. 

The average rule is as follows: 

6-in. pan. 8-in. pan. 10-in. pan. 

Allium 18 30 50 

Anemone 4 8 12 

Anomatheca 12 20 35 

Calochortus 9 15 22 

Crocus 12 20 35 

Daffodils 6 10 IS 

Dutch Hyacinths 4 6 9 

Feathered Hyacinths 12 20 35 

Freesia 12 24 35 

Grape Hyacinths 20 36 60 

Jonquils, little 12 20 35 

Lilies of the Valley 12 25 40 

Miniature Hyacinths 7 12 18 

Musk Hyacinths 5 9 15 

Oxalis, regular 10 18 28 

Oxalis, Buttercup 3 6 10 

Polyanthus Narcissus 5 9 15 

Puschkinnia Libanolica .... 12 20 35 

Ranunculus 4 8 12 

Roman Hyacinths 5 9 15 

Tropaeolum 4 7 10 

Tulips 9 15 22 

The foregoing are those classes of bulbs from which the non- 
professional gardener can select certain varieties for growing in the 
dwelling house. 



14 GROWING BULBS 

To combine several colors or varieties of a certain specimen in a 
pot is never productive of desirable results; either the combination 
of colors clash or the varieties do not flower together, or grow of 
different heights. 

There is an intermediate pot between the regular pot and what 
is known as bulb pan, and it is commercially called "Azalea Pot." 
Daffodils, which are rather elongated bulbs, do much better in these 
pots, also Hyacinths, for they allow more play room for roots. 
Again, fern-dishes, which are very shallow, may be used advantage- 
ously for small and flat bulbs such as Crocus, Snowdrops, Grape 
Hyacinths and Puschkinnia. 

The Proper Method of Potting. 

With bulbs, soil and receptacle at your disposal you are ready to 
proceed to pot. 

WHEN TO POT.— Two-thirds of the success in this method is 
traceable to timely potting. 

Freesias and Callas should be potted in July. Lilies, Oxalis, Ro- 
man Hyacinths, Paper-white Narcissus and Alliums in August. All 
others in September, except Anomatheca and Lilies of the Valley, and 
these two should be potted in November. 

In a complete collection of bulbs there is a great variation of 
times when they arrive from their original sources, and of course 
at that time they are in the prime of life. It goes without saying 
that the ideal time for potting bulbs is immediately after their arrival 
from their original growing place; I would suggest that when you 
order your bulbs you instruct your dealer to forward the different 
items just as ttaey arrive, for then you will at least have favorable 
conditions to begin with. The longer a bulb remains dormant, the 
weaker it becomes in constitution. The planting of bulbs for the 
house after October, with the exception of a few varieties, is a waste- 
ful effort. Have you ever grown Hyacinths where the flower would 
color while still hidden way down in the foliage, and when you touched 
the flower it would lift right out and show no connection with the 
roots? Well, that is one of the results of late planting; the base of 
the bulb has become so hardened that there is no connection between 
the roots and the growths. Two-thirds of stunted flowers of Tulips 
and Daffodils are the result of the same complaint. The following 
rules for potting should be strictly adhered to: 

Variety. Month. 

From To 

Freesia July August^ 

Gladiolus Atroviolaceous " 

Oxalis " September 

Callas " ;; 

Lilium Harrisii and its family " 

Roman Hyacinths August October 

Paper-white Narcissus " January 

Allium Neapolitanum " September 

Jonquils Campernelle " October 

Dutch Hyacinths September 



<< 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 15 

Variety. Month. 

From To 

Tulips September October 

Daffodils, Narcissus and Jon- " " 

quils other than mentioned 

before. 

Crocus " 

Anemone " " 

Small Hyacinths " 

Puschkinnia Libanotica September " 

Ranunculus " " 

Snowdrops and Scillas " " 

Tropaeoleum " " 

Anomatheca October November 

Spirea November December 

Gladiolus Nanus 

Lily of the Valley " 

Cypripedium Acaule December January 

Of all varieties mentioned above where no specific variety is given 
I recommend to select only such sorts that are suitable for pot culture. 

HOW TO POT.— In the bottom of the pot should first be placed 
a few pieces of broken crockery to produce drainage. Upon the 
crockery it is advisable to place a thin layer of Sphagnum Moss (this 
is the common wood moss) so that the roots do not suffer in case 
watering is neglected. One or two small pieces of charcoal deposited 
upon the moss will help to keep the soil sweet. We now fill the pot 
with soil up to two-thirds of its capacity. We then place our bulbs 
and it should be borne in mind that the nose or top of certain bulbs 
should and can protrude from the soil after we are finished potting. 
Hyacinths, Daffodils and Narcissus are the varieties to which the 
above rules apply, while all others require that no part of the bulbs 
is visible, but that does not mean that they should be planted deep, 
but just under the surface. A finished pot should never have the soil 
come up to the top, but a playroom of at least one-quarter to one-half 
inch should be left vacant. This is especially desirable for watering, 
for otherwise the water would run right off and could not be taken 
up fast enough by the plant. 

Every pot should contain a label stating the name of the variety 
the pot contains. 

Some growers after the bulbs have been placed on the soil use 
pure sand to fill in betwen the bulbs, as it will allow the water to flow 
freely to the roots. Just as soon as a pot is finished it ought to receive 
a thorough soaking. 

This completes the work of potting. 

d. STORAGE PLACE FOR ROOTING.— With the exception 
of Freesias and Oxalis, Callas and Lilies, all potted bulbs should be 
stored away in a dark place for the purpose of making roots. One 
should not attempt to produce any top-growth before a sufficient 
amount of root-growth is made to support it. We should at least 
attempt to provide in this storage place conditions which approach 
to a marked degree those found in the open garden. How can this 
be produced? There are several ways. 1. If a cold frame is at hand 
this is the ideal storing place. Remove sufficient soil to allow for the 



16 GROWING BULBS 



heights of pots and pans and cover the ground with a layer of coarse 
coal ashes. They are splendid for drainage and will keep away field 
mice, which as a rule are fond of tulips and have been known to de- 
stroy them by the hundreds. In placing the pans or pots it is well 
to remember that those which are taken out first should be placed 
v/here they are easily accessible. (See notes, "How long to store.") 
Finally, all pots and pans should be buried under four to six inches of 
sand. The available space between sash and sand should be filled 
solidly with leaves, but not before freezing weather sets in. 

Under those conditions one can go to the frame any day in winter 
(regardless of weather) and easily remove the pots to the house. 

Whoever has a garden and loves to grow these bulbous flowers, 
could not invest in anything more useful and serviceable than a cold 
frame. A single year's use would repay the entire expense and the 
frame should last indefinitely. A cold frame would mean absolute 
success, would save all care for the bulbs from the time they are 
stored until they are brought to the light and v/ould give maximum 
results from a minimum of labor. 

The frame no doubt is the most satisfactory storage place, but 
by stating this I do not wish to discourage the gardener who cannot 
afford a cold frame or who does not possess one. On the contrary, 
I want to show him a method by which he can find a substitute for 
a frame. Dig a pit two feet deep, put a good layer of coarse coal ashes 
in the bottom, place your pots, fill finer ashes between the pots and 
cover the whole with pure sand to come even with the surface of your 
garden. When freezing weather sets in cover the spot with manure 
to a depth of fully 12 inches. In lifting the pots it may be necessary 
to await favorable weather, which is the only drawback with this 
method. In digging the pit select a spot where water is not liable 
to settle. 

Both of the foregoing methods are of course designed for such 
people who are so fortunate as to live in the country and have a garden; 
but what about the city-dweller who perhaps is more devoted to this 
class of flowers because it gives him a substitute for a garden, and 
how willing he is to go to all sorts of trouble to try and raise a few 
flowers which he can call his own. 

The love of growing flov/ers is born with most of us and when 
I see this love in people who are by circumstances handicapped to 
give it full vent my heart goes out to them and I want to help them. 

The method hereafter described is perhaps more in vogue than 
any other and I shall be careful in describing it fully so that the 
person, who perhaps may live in a single room, may find here the in- 
spiration and the stepping stone to some happy hours, which other- 
wise might have been desolate and tiring. 

A temperature of from 42 to 50 degrees and the exclusion of light 
are the two most important points, and they must exist to form the 
real storing place for bulbs to root. Let us consider these two points 
separately. 

The first place we would naturally look to for a steady temperature 
of from 42 to 50 degrees is the cellar. If the cellar is unheated and air 
can be admitted to it, that is your ideal spot. But how many cellars 
are unheated? Very few indeed. In spacious cellars, though, as a rule 
there are extreme corners, farthest away from the heater, where it is 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 17 

rather cool. Such a corner can be made to do, provided it is located 
near the point of ventilation. Sweet, fresh air is as much a food to 
a plant as it is to a baby. But why resort to the cellar alone? There 
are other places in a house which perhaps are more suitable. For 
instance, the attic. If unhealed, just right. Perhaps you say, it is too 
cold at times, for it goes down to the freezing point and lower during 
cold spells. These are conditions which are much easier to change 
and control than if the place was too warm. We must never lose 
sight of the fact that most bulbs are improved by freezing, for that 
would be the treatment they would receive out-of-doors. If the attic 
is heated and the heat cannot be controlled, there may be a spare room 
v/here the heat is omitted. Not only should the temperature be low, 
but it should not vary at any time to a great extent. That is the reason 
why living rooms are not good storing places for bulbs. Invariably 
we enjoy temperature of 70 degrees during the day and about 50 de- 
grees or less during the night. 

There is one rule in growing all plants which if carefully studied 
and followed must spell "success," and that rule consists of three 
words: "Keep it growing." As soon as any plant receives a set-back 
during its process of growing it has a handicap which few plants are 
ever able to overcome. Like spring gently follows the winter (accord- 
ing to the teachings of science and not to actual experience nowadays) 
so does a gentle increase in temperature advance the growth of any 
plant. Once that growth is started the progress must be continuous 
or failure is the result. 

Suppose my reader had at his disposal only a furnished room and 
his room had to be heated; there are still possibilities of growing 
bulbs. To begin with, try and live in as cool a temperature as possible. 
It is much healthier to live in a room of 55 to 60 degrees than in 75 or 
80 degrees. This temperature in the storing of the bulbs can be still 
further reduced for the bulbs by adopting the following suggestion: 
Secure any kind of wooden box, line it if possible with tin, spread a 
3-inch layer of coarse coal ashes in the bottom, place the pots upon the 
ashes and fill the box entirely with ashes. Do this by the open win- 
dow so that this preparation is conducted in as cool an atmosphere as 
possible. Then place the box as far away from the radiator as pos- 
sible, but not in a place where fresh air cannot reach it. The selection 
of varieties will also help to greater success. It should always be 
remembered that it is much easier to grow Dutch and Roman Hya- 
cinths, Jonquils and Daffodils, Paper-white Narcissus than any other 
bulb, and those persons whose storing conditions are not just ideal 
v/ould be much better off if limiting themselves to the aforementioned 

in" the STORING OF BULBS THERE IS ONE PLACE IN 
USE TODAY WHICH I WISH TO DISCOURAGE, NAMELY, 
THE CLOTHES CLOSET. Air, as stated before, is an absolute 
plant food and in a closet it is always of inferior quality. 

THE ELIMINATION OF LIGHT.— Exclusion of daylight only 
is not sufficient — conditions must be similar to the out-of-doors. This 
can be accomplished in two ways: If the floor is concrete or asphalt, 
spread ashes or sand upon it to the depth of at least three inches. 
Upon this place the potted bulbs in single layers and cover them with 
either ashes or sand to a depth of six inches, so that the pots are en- 



18 GROWING BULBS 

tirely buried. If the floor is of wood store the bulbs in a box and line 
the box with tin, but have ashes or sand below, between and above 
the pots. 

WATERING DURING STORING PROCESS.— As stated be- 
fore, directly after potting, the pots should receive a thorough soak- 
ing. If stored in the cold frame or the pit, they require no further 
looking after until brought to light, but if they have been stored in 
the house it is advisable to sprinkle either the floor or the box or the 
surface of the entire lot, or all, at least once a week so that there is 
no chance for the soil in the pots to dry out. This watering is in- 
tended solely to keep the moisture within the pots, not to let it escape. 
In this weekly watering the purpose in mind is simply to create a 
moist atmosphere and at no time should the watering be so plentiful 
as to carry it to the pots themselves. Should the soil become very 
dry in the pots it would mean a blind bulb, or in other words, you 
would produce foliage and no flowers. We all have had this expe- 
rience and invariably we blame the bulbs for it. 

HOW LONG SHOULD WE LEAVE A BULB IN THE STOR- 
AGE PLACE IN ORDER TO KNOW THAT IT IS PROPERLY 
ROOTED? The time varies greatly and the table below simply gives 
the minimum amount of time required. It is always desirable to have 
a succession of flowers of the same kind during the winter, but that 
does not mean that we have to pot our bulbs at different periods, but 
the fact is that they all should be potted at one time and that early, 
but in bringing them to the room as many pots should be lifted as 
desired at one time. For a continuous succession of bloom, pots 
should be lifted once a week. 

Time Table for Storing. 

Variety. Limit of Duration. 

Paper-white Narcissus 6 weeks 

Roman Hyacinths 8 

Allium Neapolitanum 14 

Jonquils Campernelle 14 

Dutch Hyacinths 14 " 

Tulips 16 

Daffodils, Jonquils and Narcissus other 

than mentioned 12 

Crocus 16 

Small Hyacinths 16 " 

Puschkinnia 16 

Snowdrops 16 

Scilla 16 

THE PLACE TO MATURE THE FLOWER.— The change 
from the storing place to the place where the bulbs are expected to 
flower, considering light and heat, should be gradual. When they are 
lifted from the frame or pit they are probably in a frozen condition. 
It is essential to thaw them out gradually. If they are stored in the 
dwelling the light should come to them gradually, but one more im- 
portant point must be considered. Immediately after lifting try to 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 19 

ascertain if the roots are well developed and have pierced the soil in 
all directions. This is easily accomplished by carefully turning the 
pot upside-down, with one hand to hold the bulbs and soil intact 
and with the other to lift the pot sufficiently to investigate the roots. 
If the roots are not sufficiently developed, then place the pot back 
again, for without good roots the result is always indifferent. Many 
of the bulbs have perhaps made considerable top-growth while in 
storage and naturally this top-growth is yellow. Two or three days 
in partial or indirect light will quickly change yellow to green. 

The final place where they are to flower should be selected with 
care. Of course we want them in our living room, where we can 
enjoy them, but here the conditions best for the plant are not ideal. 
When they are first brought to the light 50 degrees is the proper tem- 
perature and as they progress the temperature can increase to the 
usual one in a living room. Those who wish to produce the finest 
flowers would do well to grow them first in a laundry and when the 
flower-buds show bring them to the living room. The moment they 
are taken from the storage they require daily attention as to watering, 
and occasionally an application of liquid food such as dissolved sheep 
manure. When the bud shows to turn color apply the liquid food 
daily. 

Once in the living room the plant must have direct light, so if 
placed near the window it is in the best spot, but care must be taken 
to protect the plants from frost during the night, either by removing 
them to the center of the room or by covering them with sufficient 
thicknesses of newspapers. 

The unfolding of the flower-bud is to my mind the most inspiring 
sight, and I should like to suggest to those who have not yet enjoyed 
it to watch for it when the Hyacinths or Daffodils are at this stage of 
their life. The Poetaz Narcissii, however, present the most beautiful 
buds of all. 

In conclusion, an appeal to those who are kind of heart. Remem- 
ber those unfortunates who are ill and bed-ridden. A pot of bulbs, 
well advanced but where the flowers do not yet show colors, will 
prove a message of cheer, excelling medicine or any other stimulant, 
for it strengthens the hope in life — a sure cure for all ills. 



2. Growing in Fibre and Vases. 

This, a unique and original method, means the abolishing of soil 
and the unsightly pot with its opening at the base for drainage and, 
of course, the saucer. 

In the place of soil the new method offers a fibre prepared from 
certain plants and mixed with moss, which is absolutely clean and 
odorless. Once used it can be stored away and re-used for a number 
of years. It is as light as a feather, retains moisture well and has 
certain food qualities. For a receptacle we can use any artistic glazed 
or unglazed china bowl, pottery or glass, provided it is shallow and 
its shape suits the purpose. This feature in itself produces a far more 
artistic effect for the sitting room. In these jardinieres there is no 
outlet for superfluous water, an advantage which can only be measured 



20 GROWING BULBS 



by the fact that these vases can be placed anywhere about the house, 
in the drawing-room or dining-room, without fear of any water or dirt 
coming through the base of the receptacle. 

CULTURE. — For city dwellers this method proves a revelation 
and boon. The fibre is so clean that after handUng it no dirt has 
accumulated on the hands. 

The prepared fibre, which you receive in dry condition, must first 
be moistened, when it appears like moss just gathered from the fields. 
It must not be too wet. Select your bowl or vase for the particular 
kind of bulb you wish to plant. The smaller bulbs such as Crocuses, 
Scillas, Grape Hyacinths, Puschkinnias and Snowdrops should be 
planted in very shallow dishes, while Hyacinths, Tulips and Daffodils 
require more depth. Never mix the kind of bulbs or colors, but use 
all one color of one variety in a single dish. 

No broken crockery or moss is necessary here, but simply place 
a few pieces of charcoal in the base and fill with moistened fibre of 
one to three inches depth according to the height of the bowl. Place 
the bulbs in position so that their tips reach to within a half inch of 
the rim, the spaces between and around the bulbs to be filled also 
with the moistened fibre, but carefully pressed in by hand, not too 
tight, however. This pressing does not apply to the fibre below the 
bulbs. 

Once potted as mentioned above the vases should be stored in a 
dark, airy cellar or room regardless of temperatures, but nothing 
could be worse than to store them in a confined cupboard or a small, 
dark, airless room. 

The only attention we need give them from now on is to see that 
the compost is kept steadily moist, but on no account should it be 
sodden or too wet; neither should it ever be allowed to become dry, 
even for half a day only, for the pores of the roots close up and the 
bulbs in many cases go blind and are ruined. This happens more 
frequently with Tulips than Narcissus, the Tulip roots being finer 
and therefore more liable to injury. 

When the bulbs have grown about one inch above the surface they 
should be brought to daylight (the time that they thus remain in dark 
storage varies again according to the variety of bulbs) and the vases 
or bowls can be placed in the window, care being taken, of course, to 
keep them from frost. Watering now is of utmost importance. The 
surface of the fibre should always look moist, but if too much water 
has been given the bowl may be held carefully on its side so that the 
surplus water can drain away. As the growth increases, more water 
will be required and all the light possible should be given to insure 
sturdy foliage. 

The fibre is very inexpensive, considering that a certain measure 
increases one-third in size, for you receive it packed tightly and dry, 
and when moistened it swells considerably. 

This nev/ method was first introduced by the late Mr. Robert 
Sydenham ("Uncle Bob," as he was familiarly known to the frater- 
nity), at Birmingham, England, and for a decade almost he worked 
untiringly to perfect this method to such a degree that in England 
today there are special exhibitions of bulbous flowers grown in fibre. 
As Mr. Sydenham says, it is the most charming method of growing 
beautiful spring flowers for house and table decorations. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 21 



Although, as mentioned, the fibre has certain food qualities, an 
additional food in the shape of weak soot water may be given with 
advantage when the bulbs are coming into bloom. 

Some growers recommend the adding of ground oyster shells to 
the fibre at the rate of eight pounds of shell to one bushel of the 
dry fibre, but when moistened it will weigh nearly 40 pounds. 

The Ideal Selection of Bulbs to Grow in 
Prepared Fibre. 

I repeat herewith Mr. Sydenham's account, as his experiences are 
undoubtedly far more valuable than anything I could offer. 

ROMAN HYACINTHS.— Six or more bulbs in a bowl make a 
very charming table decoration, and if potted early in September 
may easily be in bloom by middle of December; if a few are potted 
every two weeks from the date mentioned a succession may be had 
for a number of weeks. 

FREESIAS are delightful flowers. If the small bulbs are potted in 
August or early in September and kept in a cold frame till well rooted, 
they may easily be had in bloom in January. 

PAPER-WHITE NARCISSI!.— If potted from August on, fort- 
nightly up to January, a constant procession of flowers may be had 
from November until March. 

POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS.— Although the Paper-white be- 
longs to this family, it is rather distinct, for it flowers much earlier 
and is much freer in bloom. 

Some of the other varieties though, notwithstanding their later 
flowering qualities, are better, more handsome and larger. The varie- 
ties which do particularly well are Etoile d'or. Grand Monarque, 
Grand Soleil d'or and Queen of the Netherlands. 

POETAZ NARCISSUS.— The new Poetaz family are very charm- 
ing when grown in fibre. The varieties Elvira, Irene and Alsace have 
proven the best. They are very delicately perfumed. 

DAFFODILS. — The following varieties have proven far superior 
to many of the others which were tried: Obvallaris, Henry Irving, 
Golden Spur, Emperor, Victoria, Madame Plemp, Vanilla, Madame de 
Graaf, Mrs. Langtry, Barri Conspicuous, Poeticus Ornatus, Queen of 
Spain, Sir Watkin, Von Sion and Orange Phoenix, 

DUTCH HYACINTHS.— All of them grow splendidly in fibre. 

TULIPS. — Only certain varieties succeed in fibre and these are 
mentioned forthwith: Yellow Prince, Mon Tresor, Vermillion 
Brilliant, Prince of Austria, Pottebakker White, Joost V. Vondel 
White, Keizerskroon, Fabiola and Rose Grisdelin. 

CROCUS. — All sorts do well but only large bulbs should be 
used. 

SCILLA SIBERICA, ) ^, , u- r • ,i j 

SNOWDROPS ( These harbmgers of sprmg all do ex- 

CHIONODOXIAS I ceedingly well in fibre and if planted in 

PUSCHKINNIAS' ^ ^^^^ shallow bowls are a perfect picture. 

This method is almost unknown in America, yet there is an 

enormous field for its adoption. Why is the gardening public so slow 

to adopt newer and better methods? Is it because they have been dis- 



22 GROWING BULBS 

appointed in the past, or is it because they are used to their grand- 
mother's ways? My personal opinion is that those who would profit 
most by the distribution of horticultural material have done least in 
the past to disseminate really helpful information which would bring 
about more love for growing flowers. 

3. In Water and Pebbles. 

One of the easiest methods for a few varieties of bulbs. 

The Chinese introduced this method here by showing us their 
Sacred Lilies and growing them in this fashion. 

China bowls, plates or plaques are the most artistic receptacles; 
the pebbles are used to produce an even bed for the bulbs to sit upon 
and to hold the bulbs erect. The pebbles should take up a depth of 
at least one inch and a few pieces of charcoal should be placed un- 
derneath them. The bulbs should be set very close, because great 
masses produces the best effect. Large China plaques which can con- 
tain from 50 to 100 Paper-white Narcissus are perhaps amongst the 
most lovely things in creation when the bulbs are in full bloom. 

There are but three classes of bulbs which can be successfully 
grown in this manner. 

PAPER-WHITE NARCISSIL— The flower and its form resem- 
bles the Chinese Lily and does best of all. The essential points for 
a successful culture are to keep it cool at all times.. With the 
Chinese Lily as well as the Narcissii the water can cover the bulb, 
but this is not essential. After planting, place the dish in a dark 
and cool place for about two weeks, then place in direct light and in 
as cool a spot as possible. The first flowers appear within eight 
weeks after planting and for six weeks they are constantly within 
reach of the eye, watching their daily progress which we imagine 
goes at the rate of an inch a day. The chaste white blossoms are. 
dainty and cheerful and as a child can grow them successfully they 
ought to be found in every home, rich or poor. 

The bulbs of these Narcissii arrive in August and as a rule few 
people think of planting bulbs until October; this brings the blooms 
about December and invariably the very easy manner in which they 
flower brings on the desire to try once more. But now it is too late 
to procure any more bulbs. It is advisable therefore to purchase 
enough in the beginning to cover the wants for the entire winter; but 
in storing bulbs away for later planting we should spread them on 
shelves in a cool dry room, otherwise they may be found in such con- 
dition later that they are worthless. 

NARCISSUS GRAND SOLEIL D'OR.— Related to the "Paper- 
white" it requires much longer time to come into bloom, but being of 
a golden yellow color, it is much desired and pays for the patience 
it exacts 

CHINESE SACRED LILIES.— The Chinese usually peel the 
brown skin from the bulb and make a few incisions on the side to 
allow the new growth to break through quicker. The water should 
come at least to within the middle of the bulb so that a deeper dish 
or bowl is necessary. With many people the plants grow too fast 
with the result that the buds blight and never mature. The reason 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 23 

for this is, that the bulbs were grown in too much heat. Chinamen 
grow LiHes to perfection in rooms where there is little or almost no 
heat at all. 

CROCUS. — Only mammoth bulbs should be used for this purpose 
and although they require nearly five months to mature into bloom, 
the very transformation from the old bulb to the new is a most 
fascinating process and repays well for the delay in blooming. 

Hyacinths in Plain Water in Bottles. 

The French people were the first to adopt this novel method and 
carried it along to such an extent that they made freaks of the plants 
by producing a bottle where one bulb would grow upright and an- 
other reversed. The latter would be entirely enclosed in a glass holder 
and supporter. It is a curiosity and freakish to the limit. Fortunately 
the latter method has never become popular. There are two styles 
of glasses known as Hyacinths glasses, one about 10 inches high, 
rather narrow with a mouth for the bulb to rest in; the other shape 
is rather similar to a water bottle and dwarfed but has the same 
form of mouth. 

For decorative purposes they come in many colors; some growers 
have advanced the idea that the color of the glass has an effect on 
the rootgrowth, but I have never been able to verify this statement. 

Not all varieties of Hyacinths can be successfully grown in this 
method, but no one has ever dared to recommend a certain list of 
sorts which can be relied upon, and as my experiments in this way 
were not exhaustive enough to assume authority I shall leave this 
point still unsettled for some future time. 

The essential points in this method are as follows: A piece or 
two of charcoal in the bottom of the glass, good sweet water, to reach 
within an eighth of an inch of the base of the bulb; the usual method 
is to bring the water right up to the bulb. The result is an unhealthy 
rootgrowth, souring of water and decaying of base of bulb. 

The glasses must be stored in a cool, airy, dark room (not closet), 
until the roots have reached the bottom of the glass and until the 
topgrowth has advanced from three to four inches. I like to see the 
topgrowth almost perfected in the dark and only then are the ideal 
results produced; namely, that the spike is far ahead of the foliage 
and not as it so often is, squatted between the leaves and colored be- 
fore it matures to its natural form. Many failures may be attributed 
to impatience on the part of the grower in bringing the plants to the 
light too soon. It is even much better to leave them in the dark too 
long. See to it that the water is replenished whenever necessary; 
change it entirely now and then. 

Another practical method of producing the flower spike at the 
same time as the foliage is as follows; 

Prepare a paper cone of dark color, about 10 inches long and 
place it over the bulb. The light entering from above will draw the 
growth up simultaneously and when the spike is tall enough the cone 
is removed. The foliage unfolds and the flowerspike is perfected. 



24 GROWING BULBS 



4. In Moss Exclusively. 

This method may be adopted particularly well for Lily of the 
Valley and Crocus. The receptacle may vary as one desires. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY.— As a rule these arrive the latter part 
of November or the beginning of December. The bulbs are known 
as pips. Each pip has its set of roots, usually very long, and the pips 
are packed in clusters of 25. 

If the fresh pips are grown just as they arrive they invariably 
produce flowers, but no foliage. To produce both at the same time 
it is necessary to subject the pips to solid frost for at least three days. 
This can be accomplished by wrapping the pips in moss and bury- 
ing slightly in the ground out of doors until they have been sufficiently 
frozen or to pack them in a box and subject them to freezing storage. 
A frozen Lily of the Valley will often produce its flowers within 21 
days after planting. After being frozen they require gentle thawing 
out. Have a deep pot or other receptacle ready, place a few pieces of 
broken crockery at the base, add a piece or two of charcoal and then 
take as many pips as your pot will conveniently hold and spread them 
out so that there is space between each pip. Previous to this, secure 
sphagnum moss, which is the ordinary wood or field moss, chop it 
up to small pieces and pack this moss firmly between the pips until 
the moss reaches the centre of the pip. Pack your pot into a larger 
one or put several in a box, pack more moss between the pots and 
soak it all, then place another pot upside down over them all to ex- 
clude light and store them in as warm a place as possible, next to 
the stove if convenient. See to it that the pots have plenty of water 
every day. In about five days remove the cover, place pots in deep 
saucers on top of steaming radiators, water three times a day and 
soon the leaves and flowers will unfold; place nov/ a cone of brown 
paper over the pot to draw the flower up high and within a week 
after this you will enjoy a pot of Lilies of the Valley equal to any 
you have ever purchased. 

SPRING CROCUS.— These may be grown in shallow bowls in 
the manner recommended for water and pebbles, substituting moss for 
the pebbles. Grow slowly and cool for they require fully five months 
to produce flov/ers. Use large bulbs only. 

CROCUS SPECIOSUS.— This is a fall flowering specie and if 
planted as the foregoing in September it will be in full bloom some- 
time in November. The beautiful lavender flowers are not accom- 
panied by any foliage, and if cress is sov/n on the moss at the time 
the bulbs are planted the flowers will appear above a beautiful green. 

5. As Air Plants. 

A very curious and interesting way to grow a few species of 
bulbs. The reason that these bulbs will produce flowers without either 
soil or water is that their time of flowering is here and that depriving 
them of the soil or water does not stop them. The following belong 
to this curious class of plants: 

ARUM CORNUTUM, also called "SAUROMATUM GUT- 
TATUM." — A specie of Callas which produce enormous bulbs, rather 
flat and saucer shaped. The bulbs are obtainable from November on. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 25 

Placed in a saucer by the window where they can get all the sunshine 
the spike will soon peep through the centre and rapidly grow to a 
height of about 18 inches, when the sheath will unfold, disclosing a 
flov/er similar to a Callas of a deep brown, striped and speckled with 
reddish brown, which of course falls back, but holding the yellow pis- 
ton rod erect. When opening, the flower gives forth a very strong, 
unpleasant fragrance, which has often mislead some to call in the 
plumber for repairs before they could realize what had happened. No 
foliage is produced with the flower. 

COLCHICUMS (The Meadow Saffron or Fall Crocus).— Like 
the foregoing, this bulb produces its flowers without leaves. The 
bulbs arrive in August and must be purchased for this purpose during 
this month as they are usually in bloom by September. The white 
finger-like grov/th emanating from the center of a large bulb discloses 
a number of very large lavender-pink Crocus blooms in succession for 
about two weeks. Several in a dish look mighty attractive. After 
they have flowered they may be planted in the garden where they will 
reappear each fall. 



Growing Bulbs for the 
Conservatory 

CONSERVATORIES are as a rule under the care and super- 
vision of skilled, professional gardeners, who no doubt could 
improve upon my suggestions v>rhich follow, but in connection 
with this treatise I wish to impress forcibly one point; namely, that 
not all conservatories are under the care of the skilled men, that 
there are many owners of conservatories who themselves try to 
master the growing of flowers under glass. 

To encourage them and to guide them successfully the following 
chapter has been embodied in this book. 

In addition I like to do justice to some flowers which otherwise 
could not be mentioned. 

All of the bulbs as described fully in the preceding chapter can 
be grown with greater success in conservatories for light and heat 
can be controlled and conditions made ideal. 

The cold frame as a storing place forms the best connecting link 
v/hen bulbs are grown under glass. When bulbs are brought in from 
the frame they are usually placed under the bench first to change the 
color of the foliage. 

The heat must be gradually increased in order to produce the 
best flowers. 

Conservatories permit the growing of many varieties of bulbs 
which in dwellings cannot be produced. My sole aim in this chapter 
is to bring these forward and to mention any special features which 
are necessary to grow these bulbs to perfection. 

To facilitate reference to them I give them here in alphabetical 
order. 



26 GROWING BULBS 

Amaryllis — Hippeastrum Family. 

Under this class one could collect perhaps several hundred 
varieties, but in nearly all seedbooks one can find the following sorts: 
A. Johnsoni, Prince of Orange, Vittata Hybrids, etc., etc. 

It is very essential for the grower to make sure what class of 
Amaryllis he is growing for otherwise he will soon be in trouble. If 
at all possible procure growing plants in pots for then you are saving 
yourself a lot of trouble and you have the advantage of enjoying a 
prime flower the first winter or spring. 

In the spring, after blooming, plunge the pots in the open ground, 
and water but sparingly, simply to keep them growing. The idea is to 
keep them in an inactive stage. About September 15th bring them to 
the conservatory, gradually increase watering and when the buds peep 
through between the leaves feed with liquid sheep manure. 

They love a fairly warm and humid atmosphere and under those 
conditions produce their best flowers. 

If dormant bulbs are secured they must be so potted that only 
part of the bulb is imbedded in the soil and fully one-half to two- 
thirds is exposed above the surface; such plants will not produce a 
perfect flower until the second winter. Keep them in growing con- 
dition all the time just as recommended for growing plants. 

Amaryllis Belladonna. 

A unique variety or specie of Amaryllis. Secure the dormant bulbs 
in summer and pot in the manner as suggested above. 

In October or November the first growth, namely, the flower- 
spike will appear, but no foliage. The flowers are of a beautiful shade 
of pink and in order to make them more attractive it is advisable to 
plant from four to six bulbs in an eight or ten inch pan and to plant 
maidenhair ferns between them. This will entirely prevent a leggy 
appearance of the plant when in bloom. A month after the blooming 
season the foliage will make its appearance and keep on growing until 
spring. From that time on watering should be done more and more 
seldom until foliage dies down, when it can be almost entirely dis- 
pensed v/ith. If the space on the bench is acquired during summer the 
pot with the bulbs can be stored in a slanting position under the 
bench. 

Bulbous Anemones. 

All the following classes, namely: Anemone Coronaria, Anemone 
Coronaria de Caen and Anemone St. Brigid require a distinct culture, 
which can be applied to all alike. The bulb has a very peculiar ap- 
pearance, resembling somewhat a small piece of dried up punk. The 
average amateur cannot easily detect the top of the bulb and when- 
ever this occurs it is best to set the bulb on its side. These Anemones 
are mostly grown for cut-flowers and will when more widely known 
become very popular. They are extremely cheerful and bright. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 27 

The bulb should be potted in September by planting several in a 
large bulbpan or a quantity in seedflats. They must be stored in 
cold frames, but must not be allowed to freeze. They should not be 
brought to the conservatory until about March 1st and even then 
they must always be grown cool. The temperature which suits the 
violet (about 50 degrees at night and 55 degrees in the daytime) suits 
these bulbs equally well. In fact, if a house is devoted to violets, the 
Anemones are best planted between them where they will produce 
grand results. 

But Anemones can be grown with equal success in cold frames 
entirely. The frame of course must be given up entirely to Anemo- 
nes or be divided with Ranunculus and early Gladiolus which require 
exactly the same treatment. Prepare the soil in the frame carefully 
and provide for perfect drainage. After they have been planted, place 
the sash over the frame. When freezing weather sets in cover the 
soil within with leaves right up to the sash and when the weather is 
extremely severe protect the frame further with mats and shutters. 

About March 1st remove the leaves and on bright days between 
the hours of 10 and 3 open the sash to allow a free circulation of 
air. Just as soon as the growth commences to appear above the soil, 
watering must be daily attended to and an application now and then 
of liquid sheep manure is excellent. 

They usually begin to flower early in May and are at their best 
during that month. 

Anomatheca Cruenta. 

This is known as the Red Freesia, as it resembles the Freesia in 
growth, in foliage and flower. 

It is never sold in dormant condition, but the plants are usually 
lifted from the ground while growing and shipped here in November. 
They are then potted, a number in a pot, and placed at once in a 
cool greenhouse, where they slowly grow and where they produce 
their bright scarlet flowers in March and April. 

Calochortus 

(Mariposa Tulip). 

Although growing wild in California, it requires glass culture in 
the East and North. The wonderful markings of the flower which 
resemble those of the better orchids should be an inducement for 
every flower lover to grow it. The bulbs arrive late and immediately 
on their arrival should be potted. In growth it resembles a Tulip, 
but is always weak in appearance. The bulbs after being potted 
should be stored in a cold frame, but must not be allowed to freeze. 
In February they are brought to the conservatory where they can 
finally bloom in a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees. 

Cyprepediums Acaule. 

This is our native or wild Ladies Slipper. The pips which are 
usually collected in October or November should be secured from 



28 GROWING BULBS 

your seedsman in frozen condition, gently thawed out, potted in a 
pan and started cool and the heat can slowly but gradually he in- 
creased. Under favorable condition the flowers should appear in five 
weeks. Directly after potting they are best placed under the bench, 
where they are excluded from the bright light. By planting them at 
intervals of a week there can be a succession of flowers for several 
months. 

Darwin Tulips. 

I mention them here and not under the heading of "Growing for 
the dwelling," because I have never seen good results produced from 
them in the house, but I have seen them in splendid condition, when 
gently forced in the conservatory. The potting and storing can be 
the same as for all regular tulips, but when they are brought in from 
the frame they must not be placed in excessive heat, in fact they do 
much better when grown entirely at a moderate temperature, such as 
55 to 60 degrees. Darwin Tulips look beautiful in pans and they 
furnish us the rare shades, including purple, mauve and wistaria. 

Gerbera Jamesoni and Its Hybrids. 

The Barberton Daisy with its wonderful arrangement of petals 
and its long, massive stems, has become one of the most select 
winterflowers, and now that we can have them in almost every shade 
of the rainbow it is bound to become a general favorite. 

During the winter of 1913 and 1914 the better flowers brought 
one dollar each and all that could be produced found a customer 
waiting. The flowers after being cut will invariably last from eight 
to ten days. In ordef to produce a crop of flowers during the 
winter the plants must have been dormant for four months previous 
to planting, which usually takes place in November and December. 
The best method to grow them is in a solid bench and not in pots. 
Start them at a fairly cool temperature and on the dry side, that is, 
water but sparingly until the first growth is through the ground; 
then gradually increase the heat and the supply of water. The first 
flowers usually appear towards the beginning of March and from 
that time on there is a constant succession until June. When they 
cease flowering, water must be gradually withdrawn until finally they 
become almost entirely dormant; water should now only be given 
about twice a month, simply to keep the soil alive. Just as soon as 
they start again in the fall, give the bed a new topdressing and a 
mulching of well decayed cow-manure. With every year the plants 
will increase in size and produce a greater number of flowers. 

Gladiolus Atroviolaceous. 

A species which grows wild in the mountains of Egypt. It is 
collected in the early spring and usually reaches this country in July. 
The bulbs which are very small should then be potted and stored in a 
cold frame. Brought to the conservatory in October, good flowers can 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 29 



be had by Christmas, but they are much better if they are not brought 
to the conservatory until January and still better results can be had 
if they are planted directly into the frame and treated like French 
Anemone. 

They then flower in May. The flowers are narrow and small, 
but dressing the stem closely, they produce in their wonderful shade 
of blue an effect that is not easily approached by other flowers. 

Gladiolus Nanus. 

The fairly small bulbs usually arrive from Europe towards the 
latter part of October and they can be treated in several ways: 1. If 
the conservatory has a department which is entirely devoted to Car- 
nations these Gladiolus may be planted between them; they do not 
interfere in the growth of the Carnation and they like the temperature 
in which the Carnation is produced. 2. They may be potted or 
planted in flats and stored away in cold frames or protected pits until 
February and March and then brought under glass and gently forced. 
By the above two treatments they usually begin to flower about the 
latter part of April and are at their best in May. 3. They may be 
planted out into the cold frame and treated like Anemones and then 
the flowers are produced in June. 

Amongst the newer introductions there are some splendidly 
colored sorts particularly in shades of lavender and pink. 

GLADIOLUS COLVILLI, which is usually classed amongst 
these, requires the exact same treatment. 

Large Flowered Gladiolus. 

There seems to be a tendency of useful summer flowers to be- 
come more valuable when the same flowers can be had in bloom 
during winter or early spring. As a splendid example the Sweet Pea 
is prominent. Its value as a commercial flower during winter or 
spring is five to ten times its value in July and so during late years 
the large flowered Gladiolus has been brought forward to bloom dur- 
ing April and May. Of course it means culture under glass. 

In connection with this culture three points must be religiously 
observed: 1. That the bulb to be used is of proper age, namely, 
that it has flowered at least two years previously under regular field 
culture and consequently is a fully matured and very large bulb of 
its kind. 2. That the bulb is thoroughly cured. This one point 
seems to have been more responsible for failures in the past than 
any other thing. Also the culture calls for planting in January. A Gladi- 
olus bulb requires positively a rest of three months before it can be re- 
grown for another crop of flowers; that would mean that the bulb 
has to be harvested not later than the end of September. Only bulbs 
that were planted in April, with the exception of a few quick flower- 
ing varieties, as for instance "Pink Beauty" and similar kinds are 
ready for lifting at that time. Even then the curing of the bulbs 
must be far more thorough than it usually is if the bulbs are stored 
for spring planting it may require the spreading of the bulbs on 



30 GROWING BULBS 

floors of storage rooms and artificial heat used to thoroughly dry 
them. 3. That only such varieties are used which are early bloomers, 
and which are known by past experience to flourish under this culture. 
The following varieties may be recommended: "America," 
lavender pink; "Panama," rose pink; "Pink Beauty," deep salmon 
pink with blood red blotch; "Mrs. Frank Pendleton, Jr.," delicate sal- 
man pink with blood red blotch; "Mrs. Francis King," flame pink; 
"Halley," orange pink; "Augusta," white flamed with pink; "May," 
white striped with pink; "Peace," almost pure white; "Chicago White," 
almost pure white; "Brenchleyensis," fiery scarlet; "Princeps," true 
scarlet and white; "Governor Hanley," dark crimson; "Niagara," straw 
yellow. In under-glass culture the Gladiolus requires a cool tempera- 
ture, and commercial growers usually grow them for economy's sake 
between Carnations, for the temperature which suits the Carnation also 
suits the Gladiolus. If the grower is anxious to save the bulbs for 
future plantings he must be careful in cutting the flower spike and see 
to it that at least one set of leaves remains on the plant after it is cut. 
Conditions similar as out of door culture for the maturing of the new 
bulb is also necessary. This often means sacrificing valuable space 
under glass and it is a question whether it pays. It might be more 
judicious for the amateur to use new bulbs each season and discard 
those grown unnder glass when through with them. Attempts are now 
made to grow the Gladiolus in Bermuda, where the flowering season 
out of doors is in April and such bulbs are cured in July and may be 
planted in hot houses during August, and of course such bulbs should 
produce a crop of flowers during the yuletide season. 

Gloriosa. 

A flower which is altogether too little known in this country. 
When a large group of these flowers were exhibited in New York 
last spring, thousands of flower enthusiasts stood aghast and asked 
"What is it?" 

Gloriosa is popularly known as the Climbing Lily of South 
Africa. In the conservatory it can be put to several uses: 1. To 
use as a climber over doorways or for a general greenhouse vine* 
2. As a pot plant. The culture is the same in each case. The bulb 
is of distinct appearance, resembling a giant finger. They are 
dormant during late fall and are best procured at that time. When 
received place them on dry moss on the bench of the conservatory 
and watch for the white growth on one end of the bulb. Just as soon 
as this growth progresses it is time to plant them. 

If grown either in pots or for a vine several should be planted, 
properly spaced, as a single bulb produces a very lonesome effect. 

Cover the bulbs not more than one inch and grow in a warm 
house. Growth is very rapid and the slender stalks must be tied to 
some support. The flowers appear as a rule within two months 
after planting and many of them are produced on a single stem. 
Just as soon as the growth dies back, watering must be almost en- 
tirely omitted, and after the new bulb is well matured the roots may 
be taken from the soil and stored away in a dry spot until fall, for 
replanting. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 31 

Iris Hispanica 

(Spanish Iris). 

These require exactly the same treatment as the "Gladiolus 
Nanus," but should be potted or planted in September. 

Iris Hollandica 

(Dutch Iris). 

These are simply an earlier and larger sort of the foregoing and 
therefore require exactly the same treatment. 

Ixia. 

In culture, they require the same as "Iris Hispanica." 

Lachenalia. 

A beautiful flower, when grown in masses in a pan. They should 
be potted in September, stored in cold frames without freezing, brought 
to the the conservatory in January and gently forced. 

Lilium Harrisii. 

The original Easter Lily and known also as the Bermuda Lily. 

The bulbs of these Lilies usually arrive early in August and 
should be promptly planted. Try and secure the largest possible 
bulb, for the larger the bulb, the surer your success. Fill the pot 
but half full with soil and set your bulb upon it, allowing no part of the 
top of the bulb to protrude. The top of the bulb should not be above 
the rim of the pot. The bulb must fit fairly snug in the pot. After 
potting, place the pot in a frame without the sash and cover lightly 
with straw; water carefully and regularly every day. It will take 
from four to five weeks for the bulb to make roots, but they make 
two sets of roots. In addition to the roots below the bulbs, they 
produce a set above the crown of the bulb and at the base of the 
main stalk; when these upper roots have progressed to two or three 
inches it is time to give the plant a larger pot, but great care must 
be taken not to disturb the roots below. 

The new pot should be so large that the upper roots can be 
entirely covered and that even then there is plenty of playroom for 
watering, etc., at the same time. There must be additional space 
for the roots below as they wish still further increase. They can 
then be put back again into the frame until the cold weather sets 
in; after that they may either be brought to a cool spot in the con- 
servatory or they must be well protected in the frame, for any check 
during their progress now would spell almost certain failure. 

In the conservatory they should be grown fairly cool until you 
can feel the buds by touching the upper part. It is well now and 
then to dust sulphur between the leaves to keep the plants in healthy, 



32 GROWING BULBS 

clean condition. Watering must be religiously observed, but never 
must it be overdone, for too much water is just as injurious as not 
enough. When the buds can be felt they can be given more heat. 
A great deal depends upon when they are wanted in bloom. If they 
are desired for Easter, grow them steadily up to the time when the 
buds are almost fully developed. From now on they can either be 
retarded for a month by placing them in a rather cool and shady 
place or they can be forced to full bloom in a few weeks by increas- 
ing heat and light and water. A feeding with liquid sheep manure at 
regular intervals will improve foliage and flowers. 

Lilium Longiflorum Giganteum. 

Another species of Easter Lily which is grown in Japan. The 
bulbs arrive late in October and should be potted in the manner 
suggested for Lilium Harrisii, but must at once be placed in the con- 
servatory under the bench. Being started so late they require more 
heat from the beginning, but otherwise they respond to all treat- 
ments as suggested for the Bermuda Lily. 

Lilium Formosum. 

Another species of Easter Lily, grown on the Island of Formosa. 
The bulbs arrive in August and may be treated exactly like Lilium 
Harrisii. 

Lilium Longiflorum. 

There are two distinct types of this lily, one is grown in 
Bermuda, arrives in August and requires the same treatment as 
Lilium Harrisii, the other is grown in Japan, arrives in October and 
its culture is like that of Lilium Giganteum. 

LILIUM MULTIFLORUM, LILIUM PLENTIFLORUM and 
several others are only varieties of Lilium Longiflorum and require 
the same treatment. 

Lilium Candidum. 

The Ascension or Madonna Lily. When you buy these insist upon 
receiving bulbs grown in the northern part of France, for they are 
the only quality which should be used for growing under glass. 

The dealer cannot deceive you, for the right bulb is white in 
skin, while the inferior kind is pink. These bulbs arrive early in 
September and should promptly be potted, using Azalea pots and 
planting from four to six bulbs in the proper size pot. 

The pots are then plunged in the cold frame and when freezing 
weather sets in, they are covered with leaves and the sash. About 
January 15th they are taken to the conservatory, where they are 
gradually but gently forced. It is not always possible to regulate 
their blooming season for Easter, but even if they flower later, they 
are welcome. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT ^^ 

Lilium Philipinense. 

While this lily can easily be forced, I do not recommend it, for 
the flower is too large for its slender stem and it always has the 
appearance of being top heavy. Furthermore, the bulb is not easily 
procurable. 

Lilium Myriophyllum. 

A native of China, rather recently introduced here by the eminent 
Mr. Wilson. A lily, which when more reasonable in price, will out- 
rank all the foregoing for either conservatory or garden use. 

The bulbs can be procured in early fall and if treated like Lilium 
Giganteum, but forced only in cool houses, they produce splendid 
flowers. 

Lilium Sargentei. 

A companion to the foregoing variety and requiring the same 
treatment. 

Lilium Speciosum. 

All the sorts of this class can readily be grown under glass for 
flowering in June. 

The bulbs arrive in November and after being potted they are 
best stored for a couple of months in cold frames, where they must 
be well protected from frost by sashes and leaves. 

Heat must be gradual and gentle at first. 

Cold Storage Lilies. 

Cut lilies are constantly in demand and are always welcome, and 
for this reason cold storage lilies have sprung into existence. By 
this method cut lilies can be had every day in the year. Cut lilies 
are a splendid material for large vases. Their chastity and purity 
add grace and lustre to the most refined home. 

The most popular lily of this class is Lilium Giganteum, in ad- 
dition the following varieties may be had: Lilium Speciosum Roseum, 
Rubrum, Meelpomene, Magnificum and Album. 

The bulbs in order to keep well are especially packed in Japan 
for this purpose, and when they arrive they are immediately placed 
in cold storage. 

They cannot be purchased in small quantities as a broken box is 
worthless. Once the original case is opened the entire contents must 
be promptly potted and immediately placed on the bench for the 
roots and topgrowth will materialize simultaneously. No time should 
be lost in opening the shipment when it arrives, for delay in this 
action does not improve the bulb, but on the contrary it will make 
it unfit for use. If these bulbs are started during the sum- 



34 GROWING BULBS 



met months they may be placed in the cold frame after potting, where 
they do better than in the extremely hot conservatory. The crop of a 
case of cold storage liUes is not produced simultaneously, but one 
hundred bulbs may extend the flowering season over a whole month. 
The time required to get a cold storage lily bulb to flower varies 
with the time of year it is planted. The following is a planting table 
compiled by the eminent authority on lilies, Mr. Ralph M. Ward. 



Planting Table. 

The following dates are approximate only and are given merely 
as a suggestion. The time is based on the amount consumed by the 
average grower under average conditions. More or less heat will 
shorten or lengthen the time in forcing accordingly. 



Lilium Giganteum. 

Approximate Flowering 
Planting Dates. Time. 

January 1st April 15th to 25th 

January 15th April 25th to May 5th 

February 1st May 5th to 15th 

February 15th May 15th to 30th 

March 1st June 1st to 15th 

March 15th June 15th to 30th 

April 1st July 1st to 15th 

April 15th July 15th to 30th 

May 1st August 1st to 10th 

May 15th August 10th to 25th 

June 1st August 25th to September 10th 

June 15th September 10th to 25th 

July 1st September 25th to October 10th 

July 15th October 10th to 30th 

August 1st November 1st to 15th 

August 15th November 15th to 30th 

September 1st December 1st to 15th 

September 15th December 15th to 30th 

October 1st January 1st to 15th 

October 15th January 15th to 30th 

November 1st February 1st to 15th 

November 15th February 15th to 30th 

December 1st March 1st to 15th 

December 15th March 15th to 30th 

The above pertains to Cold Storage Giganteum only. To force 
other Japanese lilies an additional time of eight weeks should be 
allowed. 

Cold storage bulbs never produce as many flowers as the same 
sized bulbs of fresh stock. 



INDOOR DEPARTMENT 35 

Lilies of the Valley. 

Lilies of the Valley are grown in Germany and exported to all 
parts of the world. The single crown or pip is the ideal subject for 
flowering under glass. There are three distinct strains of these flow- 
ers. The "Dresden" Valley is grown near Dresden and should be 
used first. It requires little or no freezing. All types arrive early in 
December and "Dresden" is the only kind to use in January and 
February. The best method is to grow them in solid sand in a deep 
bench, which can be screened in on the sides and the top to exclude 
all light, and where they have heat in the bottom. They must be 
started at gentle heat and same gradually increased until finally they 
can stand all the heat the conservatory is able to produce. When the 
foliage and flowers have grown to the desired height light may be 
admitted and the rather light colored leaves will promptly turn green 
and the bells pure white. A crop of flowers should readily be pro- 
duced in 21 days and if plantings are made at regular intervals of a 
fortnight there should be no interruption of a flowering season. 

The "Berlin" pip must be placed in cold storage and should be 
used between May and September. 

The "Hamburg" pip endures cold storage the longest and pro- 
duces excellent flowers when grown from September until January. 

Nerines. 

They are only suitable for conservatory culture and belong to 
the family of Amaryllis. They are in flowering habit exactly like 
Amaryllis Belladonna and require same treatment. Try and procure 
potted bulbs which have flowered the fall previous, for such bulbs 
are the most valuable. 

Ranunculus. 

A great favorite with the Parisians. The flowers resemble the 
double buttercup, in fact they belong to that family. The culture of 
these flowers is exactly like that of Anemone Coronaria. 

Sparaxis. 

In form they resemble greatly the Ixia and in culture they are 
identical with it. 

Spirea 

(Astilboides). 

A hardy perennial, which is a splendid flower to force into bloom 
in conservatories during early spring. The dormant roots are chopped 
in clumps from the soil and the soil remains on the roots when they 
arrive here in November. According to their size, they are planted 
in the most suitable sized pot and stored in the cold frame until Jan- 



36 GROWING BULBS 

uary, when they are slowly thawed out and placed under benches to 
start. Later they are placed in direct light, and if forced in gentle 
heat (say 55 degrees to 60 degrees in the daytime) they give the maxi- 
mum of result. Careful but regular watering must be given, because 
if neglected only for a single day the plant may become stunted and 
produce an indifferent flower. The nev/er varieties are exceedingly 
beautiful and decorative. 

Tropaeolum Juaretti. 

A tender miniature vine, which is exceedingly pretty and deco- 
rative. The perfectly globular bulb, of which four should be planted 
in a six-inch pan, produces a very slender vine with beautifully round- 
ish serrated leaves and very small, bright scarlet. Nasturtium-like 
flower. A slender bamboo rod should be set next to each bulb so 
that the vine can find a support for its tendrils, but the vine itself 
should be trained to make circles combining all the supports, for only 
then can the right effect be produced. 

Watsonia. 

The bulb and the growth, as well as flowers and spikes, have all 
the appearance of a gladiolus. But being a native of the warmer 
climates of Africa, and as its flowering season is in early spring, it 
requires culture under glass. 

Bulbs may either be potted or planted in open benches about 3 
inches below the surface. The temperature for these bulbs must never 
exceed 55 degrees; they are of easiest possible culture. 



The foregoing constitutes simply a summary of special families 
or species of bulbs, which are used for growing under glass. Again 
I want to reiterate that all such bulbs as are suitable for growing in 
dwellings and enumerated previously should also be added to this 
list as they succeed even better here than in a dwelling. 

Many amateurs live under the impression that bulbs used for 
forcing or growing in the house can be utilized again if they are cured 
according to a fashion. This is an erroneous idea. 

All such bulbs as are usually recommended for naturalizing might 
be retained in pots until spring time, when they may be planted in 
borders, grass or woods, but even then the result is problematical. 

At any rate bulbs once forced are worthless for the same purpose. 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 



WHEN we speak of out-of-door gardens we mass under one 
name many different and distinct situations, as the following 
division will soon prove, but this is really where fully 95 per 
cent, of all bulbs are used and I am trying therefore to treat this 
subject perhaps more thoroughly than some might think essential. 
Again I must emphasize the fact that through this book I am try- 
ing to reach the flower-lover who has been groping in the dark in 
his past experience and if through this treatise I have enabled him 
to see daylight I feel fully repaid for the extra labor involved. 

In the following chapter I have taken the liberty of reprinting 
extracts from "Studies of Gardening," a book which is now out of 
print and as no author of it is known I cannot extend the usual 
courtesy, but will frankly acknowledge whenever I quote. 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 39 

The Ornamental Garden 

IN "Studies of Gardening," a book which evidently has an unknown 
author and which is now out of print, appears an article entitled, 
"The Treatment of Bulbs." This article has been written by 
someone who like myself knows the imperfection of the amateur 
gardener, sympathizes with him and is trying to help and uplift him. 
This article is so excellent and timely that I must acknowledge my 
own inability to improve upon it. 

The Treatment of Bulbs. 

Writing lately upon the use of bulbs in the border we said that 
the secret of that use was to contrast them with plants of a different 
growth. This is also true, we think, of their use in every part of the 
garden. The beauty of monocotyledonous plants is usually altogether 
different in character from the beauty of dicotyledonous plants; more 
simple, fugitive, and strange. Now the term bulb is a vague one, 
especially as it is used in nurserymen's catalogues, where it is often 
applied to any kind of tuberous or fleshy root, whether of a mono- 
cotyledonous or a dicotyledonous plant. But in this article we shall 
use it, not in the narrowest possible sense, but only of mono- 
cotyledonous plants with bulbous roots which are dormant for a 
certain period of the year; and we shall use it thus, not for any 
scientific reason, but because we wish to suggest certain principles 
for the treatment of such plants in the garden, based both upon the 
character of their beauty and upon the habit of remaining dormant 
for a certain period of the year. 

The purpose of the old-fashioned treatment of the best known 
bulbous plants, such as Tulips, Hyacinths and Narcissi, was to pro- 
duce a great blaze of blossom for a short time. They were planted 
by themselves in regiments; and when they were out of flower they 
were taken up to make room for other plants. This treatment took 
no heed of their individual beauty of form. Each plant was con- 
sidered only as contributing to a great mass of color, and certainly 
these masses of color were very splendid. But a great part of the 
beauty of a Tulip consists in its form, in the shape of its flower, the 
manner in which it carries its flower, and the contrast between the 
shape and carriage of the flower and the shape and carriage of the 
leaves. All this beauty was lost when Tulips were arranged in regi- 
ments. But, on the other hand, it must be admitted that a single 
Tulip is too small and too simple in its form to produce much effect 
in any arrangement of flowers; and this is true also of most bulbous 
plants; besides this, their flowering period is usually short. There- 
fore, if we are to make the best possible use of their beauty, we must 
arrange them so that a great part of that beauty may not be lost in 
a blaze of color, but also so that it may not be frittered away by 
too scattered planting. The best way to do this is to combine them 
with plants of a very different habit of growth and character of 
flowers; and of such combinations there is an infinite variety. We 
have spoken of the difference in the beauty of monocotyledonous and 



40 GROWING BULBS 

dicotyledonous plants. That difference is a fortunate fact in Nature, 
by means of which she produces some of her most exquisite con- 
trasts; and it is the gardener's business to observe such contrasts 
and to base his own arrangements upon them. We have said that 
monocotyledonous plants are apt to be more simple, fugitive, and 
strange in their beauty than dicotyledonous plants; and the gardener 
should attempt to contrast simplicity with complexity, fugitiveness 
v/ith permanence, and strangeness with familiarity. This he may do 
in many different ways. He may, to take one of the most obvious, 
plant his Tulips among Pansies or Forget-me-nots, so that they will 
rise through the contrasting carpet of less simple leaved flowers, as 
Daffodils rise through the grass. A hundred Tulips all of the same 
kind so planted v/ili not lose any of their beauty of form, since it 
will be emphasized by the contrasting beauty of the carpeting plants; 
and it is only by means of an arrangement of this kind that the true 
beauty of Hyacinths can be seen. Many people condemn them as 
stiff; and, indeed, v/hen they are planted out in rows by themselves 
they are as stiff as a row of Lombardy Poplars. But as the beauty 
of the Lombardy Poplar only shows itself in contrast with trees of 
a more spreading growth, so the beauty of the Hyacinth only shows 
itself in the same kind of contrast. No one would think of growing 
Bluebells in regiments, because we are all familiar with the manner 
in which Nature grows them. But the regimental system is even more 
fatal to the beauty of the garden Hyacinth. 

This plan of carpeting bulbs with other plants of a very different 
habit is now very general, but not so universal as it should be. Many 
people who are delighted with the beauty of bulbs in the grass will 
yet grow the same bulbs in beds or borders on the old regimental 
system, and they do this, probably, because they think it saves trouble 
to the gardener. It is so easy to fill a bed with Tulips in the autumn 
and then to lift them when they have gone out of flower to make 
room for summer bedding. But it is just as easy to combine chem 
with plants such as Pansies, Forget-me-nots, the double Arabis, and 
many early flowering annuals, which may be removed at the same 
time to make room for the summer bedding." 

Progress in methods of gardening have been exceedingly slow 
in the past and one v/ould have to expect the impossible if all the 
recommendations made in the foregoing article were at once adopted 
universally and the old-fashioned methods entirely discarded. 

In view of this fact it is necessary to give here a few of the 
usual methods adopted in the growing of bulbs in everybody's garden. 

The Average Country Garden. 

A flower bed, or what is known as such, is either in the form of 
a circle, or oblong, or square, or in ornamental shapes as stars, 
crescents or ribbons. 

The circle is more common than others and is usually in the 
centre of the lawn. There may be several of these in an average 
garden. 

Here we will find during summer our popular tropical bedding 
plants such as Salvias, Cannas, Geraniums, etc. When frost has 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 41 

killed the plants (about October or November) more as a rule in 
November the beds are cleared for the planting of bulbs for a spring 
display. Hyacinths, Tulips and Daffodils usually vie with each other 
in these beds. 

The first thing I must complain about is this — Why wait until 
the frost has killed the bedding plants, because bulbs cannot be as 
good in November as they are in early October and what is more 
important? How can these bulbs be expected to make a set of roots 
before winter sets in and this is one of the points required if the 
full value of the bulb is to be obtained. 

I admit it takes courage to destroy an effective bed of flowers if 
you ov/n them, but it is the old story of eating the cake and still 
possessing it; it cannot be done. For the sake of one pleasure we 
must sacrifice another. 

Plant as early as possible (September is even better than Octo- 
ber) if you want to get real results from your bulbs. 

After bedding plants have been removed, cover your bed with a 
liberal quantity of well decayed cow manure, and if this is not obtain- 
able use "Pulverized Cattle Manure," a very inexpensive and efficient 
bulb food, and spade the bed then thoroughly and quite deep for 
the manure or fertilizer must not come in contact with the bulb. 

Bulbs must never be planted in beds which are not thoroughly 
drained or where the water stays long in the spring time, for such 
conditions spell absolute death to the bulbs. 

It is advisable to form the beds sloping from the centre to the 
edge, for this will cause the surplus moisture to run off, particularly 
when the snow melts in the spring time. 

Instead of using a dibber and planting bulbs in the hole, I sug- 
gest a far better method. Make the beds about four inches lower 
than you have designed it to be when finally finished. On this sur- 
face arrange your bulbs either in the form of a design or a combi- 
nation of color just as you have planned and press the base of your 
bulbs firmly into the soil so that it stands upright; then cover your 
bed with pure sharp sand to a depth of four inches. This method 
has the following advantages: First — Your bulbs are absolutely at 
equal depths. Second — Under those conditions they must reappear 
in uniformity. And third — It acts as additional drainage so that sur- 
plus moisture finds a ready exit. 

The next question arises, how far apart bulbs should be planted? 
The solving of this question rests entirely with the individual, but 
this much cannot be disputed if solid effects are desired. Tulips 
should not be farther apart than four inches; Daffodils, five inches, 
and Hyacinths, six inches. 

The size of the bulbs should also come into consideration. For 
ordinary garden effect the "Second Size" Hyacinth will answer, but 
Tulips and Daffodils should be of the largest possible size. As to 
varieties it is utterly impossible to treat this subject here for it would 
require a book by itself and the progressive bulb books of the up- 
to-date seedsmen as a rule contain this information. 

Color, height and season of blooming must be carefully con- 
sidered if more than one variety is combined in a single bed. 

In Hyacinths, varieties should be selected which produce an erect 
spike and not such as are top heavy, and must be supported. 



42 GROWING BULBS 

In Tulips, heights and season of blooming are the important 
factors to consider. 

Daffodils should never be mixed in a bed, but only one variety 
in one place gives the best result. 

The Protection During Winter. 

I do not recommend the use of manure such as is commonly 
practised for this has been the cause of more trouble than satisfaction. 
The best protection is either dry leaves, salthay or straw pinned 
down by boughs of evergreens. The latter in itself is sufficient. No 
protection should ever be given until the cold weather sets in. 
Protection is not required for the purpose of keeping frost out, but 
mainly to keep the frost in and its real worth is manifested in March 
when warm spells thaw the ground and encourage the bulbs to come 
through, only to be nipped by the first cold night. Do not remove 
the covering at the first sign of spring nor let it remain too long, 
but judge by weather conditions. 

A sprinkling of pulverized sheep manure over the bed as soon 
as the covering has been removed will help materialy to improve the 
size of flowers. 

The average gardener is anxious to get more than one season's 
growth from his bulbs, but he is not willing to do what is asked of 
him in order to cure the bulbs for another year's effect. 

The foliage of the bulbs should have entirely shriveled before 
the bulbs are lifted and this as a rule takes place in July, but who is 
willing to wait so long and to look at a barren bed and July is too 
late to plant out the bedding plants. 

If these bulbs therefore are lifted prematurely they can never be 
expected to give the same results again and I suggest that they are 
used for naturalizing between shrubbery and that new bulbs are 
planted annually to dress our ornamental beds. 

The Italian Garden. 

Here the use of regimental beds of gaily colored Hyacinths and 
Tulips and the golden Daffodils find the setting that nature seems 
to have designed for them. The very fields of Holland with their 
squares of scarlet and yellow and blue and gold and the tender 
shades of pink and lavender and white can be duplicated here. 

The real effects, though can only be achieved through masses, 
and quantity counts here more than quality. 

Close planting is essential. Color combinations may be suggested, 
but after all they should be the product of the individual and the 
expressions of his own taste. A study of varieties, their character, 
heights, flowering season and color is absolutely essential to create 
the most pleasing effects. 

The carpeting of other flowers through which these bulbous 
flowers rise add a particular charm to this style of garden and should 
be universally followed. But another effect I have in mind which 
the author of "Studies in Gardening" has entirely overlooked. If 
between the Hyacinths and the Tulips and the Daffodils you plant 
"Pushkinnias" thickly so as to carpet the unfilled spaces a perfect 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 43 

carpet of "heavenly blue" will greet your eye the first thing in the 
spring, long before the leaves of the Hyacinths or Tulips or Daffodils 
can spoil the effect. 

By a careful selection of varieties and material the gay bulb 
season can be extended from earliest April until early June. 

Pushkinnias appear first, then follow in rapid succession Crocuses, 
Scillas, Hyacinths, the Single Early Tulips, Jonquils, Single Late 
Tulips, Daffodils, Double Tulips, Poets Narcissus and Darwin Tulips. 
All these are showy species and fit within the borders of a well 
designed Italian Garden. 

The methods of culture differs from that as described for the 
country garden, in that the Crocuses and Pushkinnias should be 
planted but one inch deep. 

The Hardy Border. 

Again I wish to submit here an extract from "Studies in Garden- 
ing," as follows: 

In the herbaceous border, however, the problem of the right use 
of bulbs is less easy; and yet it is not very difficult. True, there are 
many bulbs which are best lifted as soon as they die down, and there 
are others which resent disturbance at the very time when the border 
may need to be dug over. But both these difficulties may be over- 
come with a little contrivance and foresight. Take, for instance, the 
country garden, in that the Crocuses and Pushkinnias should be 
lifted at least every other year. These may be planted in consider- 
able masses among carpeting plants or in clumps of eight or ten 
surrounded with plants that will contrast with them; and they may 
be taken up without difficulty when they have died down, and with- 
out injuring the plants about them. The arrangement in clumps is 
best suited to the taller May flowering Tulips and to other tall bulbs 
such as the Camassias, English and Spanish Irises, Crown Imperial 
Lilies, most of the true Lilies, and Snowdrops. Some of these, 
especially Madonna Lilies, resent disturbance, and it is the bulbs 
which resent disturbance that we have learned to grow in the most 
beautiful and rational way. No doubt, if Madonna Lilies could be 
treated like Tulips, they would often be bedded out like Tulips, and 
all their beauty would be spoiled. As it is, we grow them in the 
border and treat them like herbaceous plants, with excellent results. 
We should extend the same treatment to other bulbous plants, so 
far as their needs will allow. Thus, the May flowering Tulips should 
be planted in clumps of eight or ten at regular intervals along a 
border, and if a hundred or more of the same kind — say, of Gesneriana 
or Picotee — are then planted in the same border, they will produce 
a brilliant effect of color just when it is most needed, whether in 
contrast with flowering plants about them such as Wallflower or 
Forget-me-nots, or with shrubs not yet in flower, such as Lavender 
or Santolina. And, if necessary, they may be lifted when they die 
down, just as Wallflowers and Forget-me-nots are taken up when 
they go out of flower, and other plants or bulbs may be put in their 
place. 

The contrast between the grey foliage of shrubs, such as Lavender 
or Santolina or Southernwood, and the brilliant flowers of bulbs, 



44 GROWING BULBS 

such as English and Spanish Irises, and some of the smaller Lilies, 
is always most effective; and the beauty of the contrast depends as 
much upon the difference of character in the plants as upon difference 
of color. The bulbs, with their fugitive brilliance, seem to have 
sought the protection of the more enduring shrubs. And this is not 
altogether fancy in some cases; for Lilies never thrive so well as when 
they are close to shrubs, not only because the shrubs protect them 
from frost when their growth is young and tender, but because they 
like a very rooty soil. Thus, both for horticultural and aesthetic 
reasons, it is well to grow Lilies such as L. calcedonicum and L. 
pomponium close to shrubs such as Lavender or Santolina or Rose- 
mary; and both the beauty and the health of the Lilies will be im- 
proved by the association. Among such shrubs also may be grown 
the different kinds of Gladioli, particularly the early flowering ones, 
v/hich should be planted in the autumn and which will get valuable 
protection from the shrubs when their growth first appears in the 
winter. The later Gladioli, if so treated, may take the place of Tulips 
when they are lifted, and shrubs will be much less dangerous neigh- 
bours to them than herbaceous plants which, especially in wet sum- 
mers, often grow v/ith incalculable rapidity. If bulbs are associated 
with herbaceous plants the best effect will be obtained where there 
is the greatest contrast of growth. Thus bulbs which throw up tall 
straight spikes of bloom should not be planted among herbaceous 
plants v/hich flower in the same way, but rather among plants of an 
altogether different habit — for instance, Gladioli among Gypsophilas; 
Madonna Lilies among the lilac flowered Goatsrue (Galega) ; Orange 
Lilies (L. croceum) with Erigeron Speciosus; Lilium Elegans with 
Linum Perenne or Nepeta Mussini (Catmint) ; Tiger Lilies with 
Eryngiums; Snowdrops with the pink Lavatera Trimestris, and so on. 
But in all such combination care must be taken not to place bulbs 
too close to some herbaceous plant that will make a strong growth 
before they do, and so smother them before they have a chance of 
asserting themselves. 

The later and larger growing bulbs are much easier to deal with 
in the border than the many little bulbs that flower early in the 
spring and then die down and remain dormant until autumn. It is 
possible, of course, to lift bulbs like Crocuses, Scilla Siberica, Scilla 
Bifolia, the Chionodoxias, the Puschkinnias, and the Muscaris as soon 
as they are dormant, and to plant them again in the autumn. But 
it is a troublesome business; and many of them do better if left 
undisturbed. Yet, though they make the border beautiful in early 
spring, they leave blank spaces just when it is expected to be fullest. 
If they are to be grown in the border they can be covered with 
Sedum album, which will not interfere with their growth, and which 
is green all the winter and very pretty when in flower. In this case 
they must be planted well in the front of the border as the Sedum, 
if it is to do well and flower, must not be overshadowed by other 
plants. But, indeed, these smaller bulbs always do best in the front 
of the border, as they are apt to be forgotten and dug up if they 
are among large herbaceous plants, and also they do not get the 
summer sun which most of them need to ripen them. It is also 
possible, of course, to sow some low growing hardy annual over them, 
especially over the Scillas and Chionodoxas, which like to be planted 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 45 

deep in a light soil. But this is not so easy to manage with Crocuses, 
which like to be planted just under the surface. The best plan of all, 
perhaps, with these little bulbs is to plant the Crocuses and Muscaris 
in the grass, where they will thrive, and the Scillas and Chionodoxas 
and Pushkinnias on some sunny bank which they can have to them- 
selves. Such a bank may be carpeted with Sedum v/ith excellent 
effects. Scilla Siberica may also be grown in the grass, where it is 
not too thick and coarse; but it usually thrives better under a Sedum. 

When the foregoing was written the author evidently had not 
yet recognized the "Darwin Tulip" as the most popular bulbous 
flower to be used in borders. 

It is wonderful how popular this majestic Tulip has become 
within the last three years and yet one should not be surprised for 
its merits deserve its popularity. Art shades such as mauve, v/istaria, 
lilac, lavender, bronze and purple are found in all tones among hun- 
dreds of varieties offered today. 

I shall refrain from suggesting superior up-to-date varieties, for 
the introduction of scores of novelties each season would make any 
selection obsolete in a comparatively short time. 

Darwin Tulips in the hardy border should be planted with the 
set purpose in mind never to disturb them unless they have degen- 
erated into poor unsightly flowers; then they should be lifted and 
discarded and new bulbs should take their place. Before planting 
Darwin Tulips the spot where they are intended to be planted should 
be well prepared by removing the soil to a depth of two feet and 
placing in the bottom a layer of well decayed stable manure, fully 
six inches deep. The balance of the soil to be replaced should be 
well mixed with ground bone, but where the bulbs are set the soil 
must be pure. Darwin Tulips should be set six inches deep so that 
you can plant annuals such as Lavatera or Gypsophila right over 
them when they have ceased blooming. 

What would otherwise be a barren spot can be a sheet of color 
for the balance of the season. Next to the "Darwin Tulips" the 
other classes of late flowering Tulips should be more frequently 
employed; for instance, the Rembrandt Tulip with its wonderful 
markings, the Breeder Tulip with its sombre color, the Bybloomen 
and Bizarres with its fantastic stripes and flakes, the newer sorts 
of Cottage Garden or May Tulips which are as gay as the "Swiss 
Sennerin," and last but not least the family or species of Wild 
Tulips, these more than all the others are by nature fitted for the 
hardy border for all perennials are only cultivated wild flowers. The 
Wild Tulips do wonders when they receive a taste of prosperity, 
and some varieties are without doubt superior in colors, markings and 
effectiveness to all the cultivated sorts. Tulipa Kaufmanniana, T. 
Thubergeniana, T. Sprengeri, T. Clusiana, T. Greigi and many others 
are real jewels among flowers. 

The selection for the hardy border is more extensive than for 
any other purpose in gardening and all of them should be used to 
make the border truly what it was planned to be, "the roaming place 
for all hardy flowers." 

The list which follows comprises nearly every family of bulbs 
which can be utilized in the border, and where the culture differs from 



46 GROWING BULBS 

what has already been stated it is given under the heading of "Family 
of Bulbs" with the very variety named. 
Allium. 

Anemone Apennina. 
Anemone Hepatica (prefers shade). 
Anemone Nemorosa (prefers shade). 
Anemone Pulsatilla. 
Bulbocodium Vernon. 
Crocus (both spring and fall blooming). 
Cyclamen (hardy). 
Camassia. 

Chionodoxia (Glory of the Snow). 
Daffodils (all classes). 
Eranthus Hyemalis (Winter Aconite). 
Eremurus (King's Spear), 
Erythroniums (Dog's Tooth Violet). 
Fritillaria Imperialis (Crown Imperials). 
Fritillaria Meleagris (Guinea-Hen Flower). 
Feathered Hyacinths (Muscari Plumosum). 
Galanthus (Snowdrops). 
Grape Hyacinths (Muscari Botryoides). 
Helleborus Niger (Christmas Rose). 
Iris Pumila. Plant in August. 
Iris Germanica (German Iris). Plant in August. 
Iris Hispanica (Spanish Iris). 
Iris HoUandica (Dutch Iris). 
Iris Anglica (English Iris). 
Iris Sibirica (Siberian Iris). Plant in August. 
Iris Kaempferi (Japan Iris). Plant in August. 
Lilies. There is almost an unlimited list of varieties suitable for 
this purpose and as some of them require special culture, I refer to 
the chapter that deals with the "Family of Bulbs" for further infor- 
mation. 

Lily of the Valley. Plant in November. 

Musk Hyacinths (Muscari Moschatum). 

Montbretias. 

Narcissi, all sorts except the Polyanthus class. 

Ornithogallum (Star of Bethlehem). 

Puschkinnia. 

Paeonies. 

Sternbergia. 

Scilla. 

Snowdrops. See Galanthus. 

Spirea (Astilbe). 

Snowflakes (Leucojum). 

Tulips. Darwin. 

Rembrandt. 

" Cottage or May. 

" Breeder. 

" Bizarre. 

" Bybloomen. 

" Species of wild sorts. 

" Parrot. 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 47 



Trollius. 

Trilliums. 

Special features of some of the bulbs enumerated in the preceding 
list exist as to their culture and these are fully described imder the 
respective headings in the chapter of "The Family of Bulbs." 

The Rockgarden. 

This style of garden, while yet an unknown quantity in this coun- 
try, will in the writer's opinion become one of the most popular styles 
of gardening in the future. Some of the most lovely hardy plants 
are only at home in the rockery, and this holds particularly true of 
the smaller bulbous flowers. The well-built rockery can provide every 
condition these flowers demand; for instance, drainage and protection. 
The species of wild Tulips also known as Mountain Tulips find here 
the exact duplicate of their native home and many varieties can be 
made permanent here. Their season of blooming extends over a 
long period of time, even of a single variety, so that when planted 
in clumps one finds some of them in flower, some in bud and some 
already past. 

Tulipa Kaufmaniana does exceedingly well here, for it needs 
sharp drainage. It was introduced only a few years ago and is almost 
the earliest to flower and the most beautiful of all tulips. Early in 
April or sometimes in March its blossoms begin to open, at first 
creamy white and then flushed with pink on the outside, while the 
inside has a golden centre like that of a water-lily. It seems to 
withstand the severe weather well and it is not unusual to see its great 
blossoms open above snow-covered ground. Tulipa Biflora, a beau- 
tiful little species with several white blossoms on a stalk is another 
beauty. Tulipa Lownei, a dwarf tulip with delicate pink blossoms, 
and T. Pulchella, a pretty red tulip marked inside like a calochortus, 
seems to thrive here. Tulipa Linifolia, rather late, when planted in 
large clusters appears like a glow of scarlet. All these bulbs look 
best rising through a carpet of Sedum, whose roots are too shallow 
to interfere with the bulbs and whose leaves are not thick enough to 
prevent them from ripening well in the summer. 

In fact, all the species usually offered may with safety be adopted 
for the rockgarden. 

There is a class of Daffodils that by nature must have been de- 
signed for such a garden, for this style of garden demands flowers 
which are rather prostrate or dwarf in habit of growth, and inva- 
riably with such plants the flowers are rather of miniature size. 

The following varieties I should recommend: Tenby Daffodil, 
Princeps, Queen of Spain, Cyclamineus, all varieties of Bulbocodiums, 
Triandus Albus, Nelsoni Minor, Jonquillas, Juncifolius, Diomedes 
Minor, and Montanus Poculiformis. Of Hyacinths the class of Mus- 
caris are ideal, such as Grape Hyacinths, Feathered Hyacinths and 
Muscari Azureum, the latter flowering as early as February if weather 
permits. 

Of other suitable subjects I suggest all the following: Alliums 
(all kinds). Anemone Apenina, Anemone Hepatica, Anemone Nemo- 
rosa, Anemone Pulsatilla, Bulbocodium Vernum, Crocus (spring and 



48 GROWING BULBS 

fall), Hardy Cyclamen, Camassia, Chionodoxia, Eranthus Hyemalis, 
Erythroniums, Fritillaria Meleagris, Galanthus (Snowdrops), Iris 
Pumila, Lilium Tenuifolium, Ornithogallum, Puschkinnia, Sternbergia, 
Scilla, Snowflakes, Trollius and Trillium. AH of these only look well 
if planted in clusters of six or more. By distributing these early spring 
flowers the rockery can be made gayest in April, when most plants 
are still enjoying their winter slumber. 

The Meadow or Lawn. 

Although the selection of bulbs is identical for both situations, we 
cannot lose sight of the fact that in order to make a bulb mature for 
another season's blooms the foliage should not be disturbed until at 
least six weeks have passed after their blooming spell; but we cannot 
afford to let our lawn be untidy and we must mow it, and in conse- 
quence we can use but few varieties of bulbs, and of course only 
those which either fiower very early or which grow very dv/arf. For 
this reason I recommend for lawns as follows: 

Snowdrops, Crocus, Scilla Siberica, Grape Hyacinths and Pusch- 
kinnias. 

The old-fashioned way of planting a single bulb with a dibber 
should be discarded, for not only does it disturb the lawn, but it pro- 
duces an effect which is entirely too artificial. We must try to have 
these flowers appear just as they do naturally, in colonies with a few 
stragglers in the near vicinity; some may appear as if they had wan- 
dered away from their family. Such effects are easily accomplished 
in the following simple manner: Take as many Crocus bulbs as two 
hands put together will hold and drop them naturally to the ground. 
The very position which they occupy when they fall to the ground 
should be their place of planting. Where they are close together 
employ the spade and lift the sod (nothing more) from one side, 
put in the bulbs and press the sod back in its original condition. 
Most of these little bulbs are planted too deep, which accounts not 
only for the fact that they do poorly, but that they soon entirely dis- 
appear. All of these bulbs should be planted in September (not later) 
if we want them to do well. 

The small sized bulbs of Crocus, which are usually offered by 
seedsmen should never be tolerated in the garden, for their cheapness 
makes them very expensive. Rather grow fewer, but try and procure 
the largest bulbs. No other bulb perhaps is used in larger quantities 
than the Crocus and so we should try to get material which will give 
us the maximum result. V/ithin the last few years some wonderful 
new varieties of Crocuses have been introduced, which in size rival 
the smaller tulips and appear in colors which have never been known 
before. Antique rose, mauve, lavender and reddish purple are some 
of the newer shades. 

For the meadow, of course I can suggest a much more varied 
selection not only for spring flowering, but also some which flower 
in summer and fall. For spring flowering: 

Foremost is the Poet Narcissus, almost all of the Daffodils, both 
single and double (Princeps, Von Sion, Johnstoni, Golden Spur and 
Palladus Praecox are especially well suited), Tulipa Sylvestris, Grape 



OUT OF DOOR DEPARTMENT 49 

Hyacinths, Camassia, Summer Snowflakes, Scilla Siberica, Chiono- 
doxia, Puschkinnia, Alliums, Fritillaria Meleagris and Imperialis, Lilies 
(particularly the native sorts). Iris Siberica and, finally, Colchicums, 
which here is in its native heath. Meadows as a rule are mown in 
September and shortly afterwards the Meadow Saffron (Colchicum) 
bedecks the verdure with its massive flowers of lavender pink. 

The suggestion given for planting in lawns might just as well 
be followed for the meadows. 

The Woods. 

Not everyone is fortunate enough to have woodland in the vicin- 
ity of the home, but those who have surely can enjoy paradise ort 
earth. 

What is more inspiring when strolling through woodland than 
to have your eyes feast upon an army of blossom, all eager to reach 
up and greet you? The heart of man must indeed be made of stone 
if such a sight does not awaken a feeling of enthusiasm, which should 
find expression only in silent admiration for all that is beautiful 
in nature. 

In certain countries of Europe certain days in the spring are set 
aside for people's holidays to make pilgrimages to the woods to gather 
flowers. 

"Pfingstmonday" in Germany is religiously observed by almost 
everybody; cities and towns by noontime are almost entirely depop- 
ulated. The family pack up their luncheon, to the woods they go 
and here they enjoy a day that no king can duplicate. I shall never 
forget how I used to eagerly wait for the first Lily of the Valley to 
peep through the ground and then every day I would go to the woods 
so as not to miss the first flower. 

The fascinating feature about flowers in the woods is, that we 
must hunt for them, for we never know the exact spot from year to 
year. 

Rich indeed is the man who can carpet his woodlands with every- 
thing that will grow there, for he will enjoy a reward that cannot 
be measured by wealth. 

No one should undertake to plant here the bulbous flowers unless 
he is willing to colonize them by the thousands. 

In the thickets and the dense woods, we find the Lily of the 
Valley and the Solomon's Seal. We find the Fritillaria and the 
Erythroniums, all the Anemones mentioned before, the Scilla Campa- 
nulata and the Scilla Nutans, Ornithogallums and Trilliums. Wher- 
ever light can penetrate we can mass Snowdrops, Scilla Siberica, Grape 
Hyacinths, Puschkinnias and all of the Daffodils. On the outskirts 
of woods we can mass our native Lilies, Crown Imperials, Camassias, 
Daffodils, the Christmas Rose and Iris. Each one finds here shelter, 
moisture, rest, and can roam at will. 

The Lake and Brookside. 

The finest lakeside planting existing today is at the Ames Estate 
at North Easton. One would imagine that millions of Poet Daffodils 



50 GROWING BULBS 

have been employed to create the effect. As far as your eye can 
reach you behold these clean and happy faces, and when you see the 
swans majestically glide over the mirrored waters you dream of pic- 
tures which then are real. Nothing in my mind can surpass the Poet 
Daffodils for this purpose. 

But clusters of Crocuses, Snowdrops, Puschkinnias and Scillas 
not too near the edge of the water will enliven the scenery before the 
Daffodils made their appearance; in fact, all of the subjects as men- 
tioned for meadows or edges of woods can be utilized. 

Japan Iris perhaps can portray to us here the landscape of Japan 
in July, but they should be planted as if nature had put them there. 

The Fall and Winter Garden. 

Who wants to think of the last rose of summer, or what gar- 
dener is glad when winter comes and he, like his flowers, can go to 
sleep to await the awakening of nature in the spring? 

Who does not cherish the Witchhazel blossom in February or 
the first Snowdrop in March? 

But why not make our gardens richer with flowers that are apt 
to peep through in the late fall or winter, when the country is barren 
and we cling to that last rose of summer as if it was the only thing left 
to us? 

With proper selection of material one can have something in 
bloom from November until April. Start with Sternbergia; planted 
in October, its bright golden Fairylily like flowers cover the ground 
in November; the Colchicums planted in September are still gay in 
colors; Crocus speciosus is just coming into bloom and C. Sativus and 
C. Zonatus follow it in December. 

If you have a clump of evergreens facing the south, or you have 
a warm border on the south side of the house, plant a few bulbs of 
Crocus Imperati and its blue blossoms will greet you the first sunny 
days in January and as often in the month as we have sunny days. 

If you have a cluster of trees under which the cold winds find 
no entrance, plant a few clumps of Christmas Roses (Helleborus). 
Even through the snow they will push their cheery faces of white 
and say "Hello" to you in February. Other species of Crocus would 
flower every week in the winter if a sheltered nook, where the sun 
can reach them, was chosen for them; and so we could make our 
garden so interesting during the winter that there would be no need 
of putting it out of our memory for three to four months. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 



IN the following chapter it is my intention to bring to the notice 
of my readers a very complete story of all such bulbs that can be 
employed in the cultures described in the foregoing pages. I do 
not plan though to give here an encyclopedia of every existing vari- 
ety, for many there are which will never be at home amongst the 
amateur gardeners, for whose exclusive benefit this book is written. 
To facilitate reference to this list I have arranged it in strict 
alphabetical order. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS S3 

Agapanthus 

(African Lily). 

FROM a roundish base rise in the centre broad, sword-like leaves 
fully 24 to 30 inches long, which curve gracefully. During early 
summer from the centre of the leaves emanate several stout, 
straight, fleshy stalks to a height of 30 inches, which are crowned 
with a whorl of lily-like flowers. 

It is a plant which is intended exclusively for the conservatory, 
but when in bloom it is a splendid ornament for the lawn or near the 
approach to the house or on the veranda. 

The culture is very simple. Try and secure growing plants in the 
fall, place them in the conservatory, but water them only sparingly 
until the flower-stalk makes its appearance. From now on \yater 
must be freely applied and once a week a good quantity of liquid 
manure as a food will materially help to produce the best flowers. 
While the flowers are forming the plants must never want for water 
and a good way is to set the pot or tub into a larger tub and fill the 
vacant space with water. 

When the flov/ering season has passed the supply of water must 
be gradually diminished and in winter it should receive just enough 
to keep the plant in foliage. In case the plants are used for out-of- 
door decoration they must be brought to the conservatory before there 
is any danger from frost. The varieties common in use are Umbel- 
latus, blue, and Umbellatus Albus, white. If plants are imported, 
they arrive in November. 

Allium. 

Although the name stands for the word "onion," it has no relation- 
ship either in fragrance or appearance. The bulbs as a rule are very 
small, perfectly round and cream in color. The foliage is narrow, 
long and grass like, while the flower appears in umbel form on a 
straight, leafless stalk 15 inches in height. The flowers are very ar- 
tistic, pleasing and showy. 

The variety "Neapolitanum" is grown in France and usually ar- 
rives here in August; it is especially suitable for growing in pans for 
the dwelling or conservatory. 

The other varieties are grown in Holland, arrive in September 
and are grown not only for the house during the winter, but also 
in borders in the garden, by massing 12 or more bulbs in a cluster 
and protecting them with leaves to a depth of 12 inches. 

There are a number of varieties available, which appear in shades 
of blue, yellow, white, crimson and pink. 

Alstroemerias. 

I simply mention this flower because in foreign catalogues it is 
offered as a bulb, while In reality it is a perennial plant similar to 
Hemerocallis. It is used exclusively in the hardy border and pro- 
duces lily-like flowers of yellow and orange. 



54 GROWING BULBS 

Amaryllis. 

Strictly for the conservatory. 

From a massive round bulb appear first broad sword-like leaves 
18 to 24 inches long, which curve gracefully outward to the right and 
left. The flower stalk arising in the center is enormously stout, 
round, leafless and perfectly erect, often rising to a height of 24 to 
36 inches, carrying on top from two to six gigantic lily-flowers in 
many colors: white, pink, scarlet and crimson and many combinations 
of these colors. 

Amaryllis Belladonna flowers in the fall without foliage. 

Amaryllis Formosissima has split flowers of crimson. 

Amaryllis Hippeastrum is the largest flowering species and is the 
most showy of all. In this class there are many hundreds of varieties, 
some of them being as rare and valuable as orchids. When in full 
bloom, they are gorgeous, either cut or on the plant. 

See Culture, "Growing for Conservatory." 

Anemone. 

FRENCH ANEMONE.— Under this title I gather all the bulbous 
kinds 3.S * 

ANEMONE CORONARIA (Poppy Anemone).— A favorite 
flower with the Parisians. The very pretty cut-up foliage produces a 
globular plant 6 to 8 inches high and through it appear several slender 
flower-stems 8 to 10 inches long, crowned with one saucer-shaped 
single flower in scarlet, white or blue. The beautiful centre of this 
flower is quite distinctive, as it is formed of small filaments, a fea- 
ture by which we identify other flowers. These flowers can only be 
grown in conservatories or cold frames. The type here described has 
single blooms, while A. Coronaria fl. pi. has double flowers. 

ANEMONE ST. BRIGID belongs to the foregoing in form and 
habit, but the single and semi-double flowers are larger and have a 
charm of their own, having beautiful halos around their center. 

ANEMONE FULGENS.— Of dwarfer growth than the foregoing, 
but glorying in the shades of brightest scarlet. All of them should 
be planted in September or October. 

The following sorts are known as Hardy Perennials and utilized 
either in the border or in the rockgarden or in woodlands; many of 
them are natives of woods. They are all dwarf, with bright star- 
shaped flowers for early spring. 

ANEMONE APENNINA.— This species appears in white, blue 
and lilac. 

ANEMONE BLANDA.— Blue and white. 

ANEMONE HEPATICA.r-Blue, white and purplish red. 

ANEMONE HORTENSIS.— Large star-shaped flowers in white, 
purplish violet, scarlet and crimson. 

ANEMONE NEMOROSA.— The real Wood Anemone in blue, 
pink and white. 

ANEMONE PALM ATA.— In yellow and white. 

ANEMONE PULSATILLA (known as Pasque Flower).— Large 
leaves and clusters of flowers in blue and white. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 55 

ANEMONE RANUNCULOIDES.— The yellow Buttercup Ane- 
mone, both single and double. 

ANEMONE SYLVESTRIS.— The Snowdrop Anemone in white. 

Anomatheca Cruenta. 

(Scarlet Freesia.) 

In growth and form of flower it resembles a Freesia, but lacks 
its perfume and color. The roots, to which green growth is attached, 
arrive in November and must then be planted at once. These plants 
can only be grown in conservatories. They appear in scarlet color 
only. 

Arum, see Callas. 



Bulbocodium Vernum. 

The Crocus-like flowers appear early in the spring, usually two 
or three from a single bulb, but without leaves. The color is purple- 
violet with white spots. It is perfectly hardy, but delights in a sunny 
position and in sandy soil. It fits in the hardy border in the rockery, 
along edges of brooks and lakesides and on the outskirts of the 
woods. 

Callas. 

They are botanically known as Richardias and Arum. Almost 
all can only be used for growing in the dwelling or conservatory. 
The popular Calla (Richardia Aethiopica) are usually grown singly in 
pots, and a large pot is required on account of the length of the bulb. 
The newly made growth, which is visible when the bulb is planted! 
(July- August), should protrude above the pot. Callas like a heavy 
clay soil and plenty of water while they grow; in fact, when they are 
in foliage it is advisable to use warm water when watering. The 
bulbs after being potted are placed directly in the spot where they 
are expected to bloom and no dark storage is required. In conserva- 
tories they love humidity and heat, so that they can be placed in the 
warmest spot. A little feeding with liquid manure will help them. 
Even amongst the common white Callas there are a number of types 
and sorts. Before planting always carefully examine the bulb and 
see that no decay is visible. If decay can be noticed carefully scrape 
the diseased part and dust with lime and allow it to dry before plant- 
ing. The common white Calla can be procured in many sizes of 
bulbs. The largest naturally will produce the largest flowers and 
the greatest number of them, so that it pays to give a little more 
for a large bulb. In addition, there is now offered the "Godfrey 
Calla," a variety which has purer white flowers and is more free in 
blooming. This variety is best secured in growth. There is still 
another sort known as "Pearl of Stuttgart." It is dwarf and therefore 
perhaps better for pot purpose than any of the others, but the former 
I would prefer for cutting. It grows about 18 inches high and pro- 
duces several flowers at one time from a single bulb. The flowers 



56 GROWING BULBS 

are pure white and the yellow piston in the centre is truly an attrac- 
tion. 

CALLA ALBA MACULATA is a flat bulb, which produces foli- 
age liberally, spotted with flecks of white, rather adding to the orna- 
mentation of the plant. The flowers are white and only medium in 
size. They are easily raised for the dwelling or conservatory and in 
addition may be kept dormant till spring, planted out near ponds or 
brooksides, and here they flower continuously all summer. 

YELL,0W CALLAS. — A few years ago yellow Callas were a 
rarity; today they are available in not less than nine sorts, as fol- 
lows (most sorts have spotted foliage) : 

AURATA.— Sulphur yellow. 

ELLIOTTIANA. — A deep golden yellow. When grown for the 
dwelling or conservatory do not expect flowers until May or June. 
A better way is to store the bulbs dry during the winter and to 
plant them in the garden during May. They will flower almost all 
summer. 

ELLIOTTIANA ROSSI.— Bright golden yellow with small vio- 
let centre. 

GLORY OF HILLEGOM.— Bright canary yellow with purple 
blotch. 

HASTATA.— Yellow with black, showy spots. 

MRS. ROOSEVELT.— Sulphur yellow. 

PALLIDA. — Large bright yellow flowers. 

PENTLANDI. — Golden yellow flowers on red stems. 

SOLFATARA. — Primrose yellow with a black centre. The most 
distinctive of all. 

PINK CALLAS. — Even pink flowers can be had in this family 
with variety, Rehmanni, which is rather miniature, growing but 12 
to 15 inches high, having fair sized flowers of an antique rose shade. 
Rehmanni Violacea has reddish violet flowers, which are produced 
in great numbers during the spring months. The bulbs of yellow 
and pink Callas are not procurable until late in the season and 
therefore do not bloom until April or May following. 

BABY CALLA.— The variety "Little Gem" is a white Calla 
which grows but 12 inches high and produces its flowers in great 
numbers all winter. I advise securing growing plants instead of 
dormant roots, as the former produce flowers much sooner. Arum 
is another botanical name for a class of wild Callas growing in 
Asia. None of them appeals to me as worthy of serious considera- 
tion. Arum Sanctum is known as the Black Calla on account of its 
deep purple flowers. Arum Cornutum, also known as Sauromatum, 
is simply a curiosity as an air plant and fully described as such in 
the preceding chapter. Arum Dracunculum, known as the Dragon 
Lily on account of the stems being mottled. There are other varieties 
which are of still less importance. 

Calochortus. 

(California Tulip or Mariposa Lily.) 

Although a native of California, they can only be used for out of 
door culture in localities where the climate is similar. In the East they 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 57 

are used for growing in the conservatory exclusively. It is too bad 
that this iiov/er cannot be used for gardens, for in colors and mark- 
ings it is the equal of the finest orchids and so is the shape of the 
flower. The plant in itself is rather weak. The thin tulip leaves curl 
and twist and the extremely slender flower spike, 8 to 12 inches 
high, produces one or two nodding flowers which in their interior 
are beautifully marked. Six to twelve bulbs should be massed in a 
pan and while in dark storage they must not freeze. The bulbs are 
available in October and the flowers appear in March or April. 

Camassia. 

A hardy bulb, native of this country, which is superior to any 
"Scilla" and can be utilized for the same purpose. In the garden, 
or border, or in lawn or meadows, near brooks or lakesides, in, open 
spots in woods or on the outskirts of them, simply everywhere, it 
delights the eye, bedecks the landscape with its graceful heads of 
blue flowers during the early part of June. The flower spikes are 
often 12 inches long, so that they can be readily used for cutting. 
They are absolutely hardy and require no protection. In addition 
to blue sorts one can also procure white and purple flowering kinds. 

Chionodoxia. 

Known as the "Glory of the Snow," evidently on account of its 
early flowering qualities. In sheltered locations the beautiful bright 
blue bells are often seen directly above the snow. In form and 
character it resembles the blue squill; the flower is more loose, the 
color different; it is equally dwarf and used for all the purposes of 
the Scilla, as for the dwelling in pans, or fibre, or for the garden in 
every conceivable location. The bulbs arrive in September and should 
be planted then. 

Ciivia. 

Strictly a conservatory plant. The leaves, resembling those of 
Amaryllis, are very leathery, appear in layers parted to either side 
by the extremely stout flower-spike leaning at its crown, a gigantic 
umbel composed of forty or fifty drooping apricot-colored, lily- 
like flowers. Their treatment in the conservatory is exactly like that 
of Amaryllis Hippeastrum. Secure these in growing condition during 
early fall. 

Colchicum. 

(Meadow Saffron.) 

This flower is put to many uses. 

1. As air plant, and described as suc.^ under the heading of Air 
Plants. 



58 GROWING BULBS 

2. To be naturalized in meadows, for there is its native home, 
from which it derives its popular name. The large wild cabbage-like 
leaves peep through the ground in the early spring, but usually die 
down and disappear before summer if left alone, and in consequence 
it suits the meadow, where the grass is not cut until July. During 
the whole month of October the meadows are aglow with these bright 
and cheery faces of a gigantic Crocus flower; from a single bulb (usu- 
ally large) appear as many as twelve blossoms in continuous suc- 
cession, extending the flowering season for a full month. 

3. In the hardy border. Here they should be planted in clumps 
and, if possible, between Saxifraga, as their foliage resemble each 
other. One flowers in the spring, the other in the fall. 

4. In the rockery combined again with Saxifraga. 

5. Under trees, combined with myrtle, where the beauty of the 
leafless flowers is in the fall enhanced by the carpet of myrtle. 

6. In woods, combined with Lily of the Valley, for the foliage 
in the spring resembles each other and it produces another flower 
effect in the fall in a spot which otherwise would be barren. 

The point of greatest importance to be considered is timely 
planting. You should order bulbs from your seedsman not later than 
June and ask for special importation so that they arrive early in 
August in absolutely dormant condition. If they come with the 
other bulbs in September they flower in the cases while in transit, 
and you lose thereby a full season and must wait a whole year for 
another blossom. Varieties: The common Meadow Saffron is C. 
Autumnale in both lavender and white, both single and double. C. 
Bornmulleri is very large and almost white, but the finest of all is 
C. Speciosum, with delicate pink flowers. These appear in the exact 
form of a wine goblet. A newer variety of the foregoing in pure 
white is magnificent, but very costly. 

Crinums. 

Are best described as "gigantic, cluster-flowered Amaryllis." The 
very bulbs often measure a foot through, with noses 3 feet tall. 
The only variety to which I wish to refer here is C. Powelli, known 
as the Hardy Amaryllis; grows about 18 inches high, has a smaU 
bulb and produces from two to three flowers on a spike. They are 
recommended for borders, should be planted in the fall and protected 
with leaves during the winter. They can be had in several colors, 
as light and dark pink, white and white and pink combined on one 
flower. The bulbs arrive in November. 

Crocus — Spring Flowering. 

The most popular of all bulbous flowers, being used for every 
conceivable purpose. 

If wanted for the dwelling it can be grown in soil, in fibre, in 
pebbles and water and in moss. In the garden there is not a spot 
where these bulbs cannc"- be employed. The great mistake made 
in planting them generai^y-'is putting them in too deep. They should 
never be more than 2 inches below the surface. In very exposed 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 59 

positions it is well to protect them during the winter with tobacco 
stems, which also act well as a protection for the lawn. 

But the most important point is that the bulbs should be planted 
in September and only large bulbs employed; a large bulb inva- 
riably produces 3 flowers, while a small bulb produces even under 
favorable circumstances only one flower, and generally none. The 
reason for early planting is that the bulbs in dormant state will pet- 
rify if kept dormant after September and you are apt to plant a 
stone instead of a bulb. 

The newer varieties of Crocus are a revelation as to size and 
color and should be tried by every flower-lover. 

Crocus — Fall Flowering. 

While Colchicums really belong to this class they are usually 
separated on account of the distinct shape of the bulb and foliage, 
and in addition we have real Crocus to flower in the fall even later 
than the Colchicums, with flowers and leaves identical with the 
spring flowering kinds. This class of flowers are indeed very fasci- 
nating, for they give us the parting farewell of glorious and enjoy- 
able moments experienced in our season of gardening. With a proper 
selection their flowering season can be extended right into winter, 
and through it, and this type of gardening should be more tried and 
encouraged. AH of the fall flowering species produce the flowers 
in the fall and the foliage in the springtime. 

Crocus Sativus, C. Speciosus and C. Zonatus I have found the 
most satisfactory, and Crocus Imperali I recommend as the latest 
to bloom. 

The Hardy Cyclamen. 

One of the most lovely of Alpine flowers which are an unknown 
quantity in this country. The flowers, which resemble a violet and 
which are dwarf and small, arise amidst a foliage which is beautiful 
in itself. They are heart-shape, marked with grotesque designs in: 
white. The bulbs, which are fairly large, are the ideal subjects in 
a rockery, where they can get a sheltered nook and a well-drained 
pocket. In such locations they form a glorious picture when in 
bloom. Some varieties flower in the fall, others in the spring. 

FALL FLOWERING.— C. Africanus, C. Cilicicum, C. Euro- 
paeum and C. Neapolitanum. 

SPRING FLOWERING.— C. Atkinsi, C. Coum, C. Ibericum and 
C. Repaudum. 

Plant bulbs shallow and protect with leaves. 

Cyprepedium Acaule. 

(The Hardy Lady's Slipper.) 

Although one of our native perennials, it is very successfully 
grown as a bulbous flower, similar to Lily of th- Valley, for the 
dwelling or conservatory. Its whole root formation is just like a 
Lily of the Valley. 



60 GROWING BULBS 

Pot the roots in November and store so that they can thoroughly 
freeze; in fact, they produce good results only when the roots have 
been frozen. 

Bring to the light in March and within four weeks they are in 
full bloom. From four to six roots should be in a six-inch pan. 

Daffodils. 

What a wealth of glorious thoughts enter our minds when we 
hear the word "Daffodils." When we see the Daffodils in the gar- 
dens we say a last farewell to winter, and as April meets May those 
who have thoughtfully prepared during the fall will glory in their 
showers of gold, and the smiling, enchanting faces of the ever-rippling 
Jonquils and Daffodils. The heart of man must indeed be made of 
stone if a mass of daffodils planted by the woodside, or the brook,t 
in the border or under the trees, near pines, does not make him re- 
joice anew in the rejuvenation of nature and remember his child- 
hood days when in field and woods he rapturously sought the first 
flowers of spring. What a wealth of material the Daffodils offer 
us for the garden, the fields, the woods, the hills and the valleys, 
and everywhere that we seek the verdure and the golden dewdrops. 

Yellow, to the writer, is particularly welcome in the early spring 
and late in the fall; for it denotes wealth and glory. A season of 
plenty. Begin with the golden Crocus, follow this with the richest 
of Primroses (Primula Veris Superba), and then feast on one steady 
succession of the following flowers: Daffodils, Golden Sweet Alys- 
sum, S. E. Tulip Ophir d'Or, Late Tulip Flava and Bouton d'Or, Ice- 
land Poppies, Buttercups, Doronicum and Coreopsis. When the 
summer is waning greet the most graceful of all sunflowers: Helian- 
thus Orgyalis, the pure yellow Gaillardia, yellow Dahlias and, last 
of all, the golden Chrysanthemum. 

The word "Daffodil" is generally misapplied by the average ama- 
teur. Some call all double forms of trumpet Narcissi Daffodils, and 
all single forms Jonquil. While it is the title for both, "Jonquils" is 
a name which is erroneously applied by bulbmen to a miniature form 
of trumpet "Narcissi," while the word "Narcissus" stands with the 
beginner for nothing more than the Poet Narcissus. I have repeat- 
edly observed when Jonquils were asked for in seed stores, that 
through the clerk's mistake the miniature Jonquils were furnished, 
with the result that the buyer was disappointed. 

I have, therefore, decided on classifying the different Narcissi and 
hope thus to prevent the usual disappointments. 

Daffodils are one of the easi««t of flowers to grow for the house 
and conservatory, and particularly if grown in the prepared fibre. 

To grow in the garr<;n always combine them with the lovely 
Frimuia veris Superba, the most wonderful golden Primrose. 

There are two sizes of bulbs usually offered and I think an 
explanation might serve to enlighten the garden public as to their 
value and use. 

SINGLE NOSED \z a term applied to a perfect bulb, which at 
no time produces more than one flower spike, but invariably such a 
spike produces a perfect flower and is by far the most useful mate- 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 61 



rial if Daffodils are wanted in pans for the dwelling or conservatory. 
Double nosed is a term applied to the bulb where one shell contains 
two or more flattened bulbs; such bulbs produce two or more flowers, 
but thereby, of course, sacrifice size and perfection. In gardens, of 
course, we seek masses rather than individual perfection, and so the 
double-nosed bulb perhaps serves better for out-of-doors. For natu- 
ralizing indeed I would greatly prefer the double-nosed bulb. Daf- 
fodils have been mentioned so much in preceding chapters that the 
story of their usefulness has not been overlooked. Now as to the 
classification. They are separated (1) as to the color of the flower, 
(2) as to the size of their trumpet, and (3) as to their form. 

These classifications should be better known by the amateur, for 
otherwise he cannot make an intelligent selection and might have 
disappointments which could have easily been avoided. 

1. TRUMPET DAFFODILS are all those whose trumpets or 
crowns are as long or longer than the perianth segments, and these 
again are subdivided as follows: (a) "Ajax Bicolor," where the trum- 
pets are yellow and the perianths white, (b) "Ajax White," where 
both trumpets and perianths are white, (c) "Ajax Yellow," where 
both trumpets and perianths are yellow, 

2. BARRI DAFFODILS are distinguished by the fact that the 
crown or cup of the flowers measures less than one-third the length 
of perianth segment. 

3. INCOMPARABLE DAFFODILS are flowers whose cup or 
crown measures from one-third to nearly equal the length of the 
perianth segments. 

4. LEEDS! DAFFODILS are recognized by their ch. lice or 
short cups. Perianths are white, cup or crown may be white, cream 
or pale primrose. 

5. DOUBLE DAFFODILS are easily recognized, as they om- 
prise all of the double-flowered forms. 

6. JONQUILS are quite distinct, as they have fine "".^rass-like 
foliage and bear two or three miniature flowers on a tall, wiry stem. 
They are particularly desirable for growing in pans for the dwelling, 
either in soil or fibre. 

7. MINIATURE DAFFODILS, small, dwarf-growing species 
which adapt themselves ideally to the rockgarden. 

8. THE POET DAFFODIL OR NARCISSUS POETICUS.— 
This is the common garden Narcissus which is usually in the mind 
of the amateur when he orders simply Narcissus; the seedsman, 
though, calls everything Narcissus, and nine times out of ten will fill 
your order with "Trumpet Daffodils." You can avoid this by giving 
the full name of your class. This class is especially popular for gar- 
den use either by naturalizing in grass or in the border or in woods, 
in fact, everywhere. 

9. POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS OR BUNCHFLOWERED 
NARCISSI. — No variety in this class is hardy and they are therefore 
used exclusively for growing in the dwelling or conservatory. For this 
purpose, though, they are unrivalled as to ease of culture and quick- 
ness of coming to bloom. The most popular variety in this class is 
the "Paperwhite," grown in France and usually arriving here in 
August. 



62 GROWING BULBS 

Grown in pebbles and water they are far superior to the well- 
known "Chinese Lily." In fibre they grow luxuriantly. The other 
varieties in this class take longer to bloom, but are larger and come 
in many shades of yellow. 

10. POETAZ NARCISSUS.— Rather new; a cross between the 
two last classes described and possessing characters and virtues owned 
by both. In size they are equal to the poets, but produce flowers 
in bunches like the others. They can be grown easily for the dwell- 
ing, but are also hardy, so they are the equal of the poets once more. 
The slight fragrance of the former has been blended with that of the 
latter, producing a most pleasing odor. 

Except where noted. Daffodil bulbs should be planted in Sep- 
tember if the best results are expected. 

Dog's Tooth Violet, see Erythronium. 
Eranthis Hyemalis. 

(Winter Aconite.) 

The pretty yellow star-shaped flowers appear very early in the 
spring, being unaccompanied by any foliage, which appears later. 
This is just as early as the Snowdrop and used exclusively for the 
garden out-of-doors. It is perfectly hardy and requires little or no 
protection. The bulbs are very sttiall and arrive in September. 

Eremurus. 

(The King's Spear.) 

. '^is indeed is not a bulbous plant, but strictly speaking a peren- 
nia». yet as it is offered in bulb books I mention it here. The root, 
which is formed by a number of long carrot-like fingers extending 
in all diiwctions, takes up a diameter of at least 18 inches and conse- 
quently in planting it a large hole should be dug. It requires shallow 
planting in well drained soil and protection of leaves during the 
winter. It may as well be understood that this plant does not do 
well in all climates and it is much better to experiment with it in 
limited numbers before planting them in masses. The smooth, round, 
massive flower spikes attain a height of six to eight feet, of which 
the upper part is encircled with a mass of tiny flowers, in white, 
pink or purple. The roots arrive in November. 

Erythroniums. 

(Dog's Tooth Violet.) 

A beautiful native wild flower abounding in woods and shady 
situations, and for that reason they must occupy a similar place in our 
garden. Liberal moisture during the growing season and a protection 
of leaves during the winter are just what they want in order to feel 
at home. Their popular name is a misnomer, for they have no simi- 
larity to a violet. 

The variety Dens canis prospers best and can be had in blue, 
white, pink and purple. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 63 

Eucharis Amazonica. 

A plant suited only to the conservatory. It resembles Amaryllis, 
the flowers, remarkable for their pure whiteness and their pleasing 
fragrance, are carried on a stout stem just like the Amaryllis, whose 
treatment should be copied for these. 

Feathered Hyacinths. 

(Muscari Plumosus.) 

A dwarf growing Hyacinth where the flowers are formed of fine 
filaments, thus producing the effect of a plume. They may be used 
for the garden border or grown in pans for the dwelling or conserva- 
tory. Color, violet blue. 

Freesia. 

Can only be used to flower in the dwelling or conservatory and 
requires a distinct culture for that purpose. The following are the 
essential points: 

1. Plant early in July or August, not later. 

2. Use deep pots, for the new roots which form below the others 
go deep. 

3. After being potted do not store, but place in an indirect light 
in the dwelling or under the bencb in the conservatory until growth 
shows above the soil. 

4. Never force, but grow in a fairly cool temperature. 

5. Place fine twigs on the edge of the pots to support the fine 
grass-like foliage. 

6. Have patience; the flower does not make its appearance until 
five months after planting. 

The sweet fragrance of the flower endeares it to everyone, and 
now that we have it in all colors it should appeal to every flower- 
lover. As a rule either one or two flowers open at one time on a 
stem naturally, but here is a method by which all of them can be made 
to open at one time. 

When the first flower is ready to open on a stem, cut the full 
stem and put it in a vessel with cold water and place the vessel in 
an absolutely dark, cool place. 

In three days look at your stem again; it will have grown 3 to 4 
inches, the flowers will be enlarged and all will be open. 

Fritillaria Imperialis. 

(Crown Imperial). 

A subject used exclusively for the garden. 

The bulb is fairly large, and in the centre where the flower- 
spike was the year previous is a big hole. It is recommended to 
plant the bulb on its side, for if planted upright moisture might fill 
the centre and decay the bulb. The bulbs do not keep well and 
should be planted not later than September. 

Always plant them in masses for that is the only way they look 
well. The massive flower-spike growing 2 feet high is crowned with 



64 GROWING BULBS 

whorls of drooping bells of many shades. They are usually in bloom 
about the middle of May. 

Fritillaria Meleagris. 

(Guinea-hen Flower). 

An ideal subject for the woods where they delight, but they are 
equally valuable in other spots in the garden. 

The drooping bell-flowers, which are checkered like a chess- 
board, are carried on slender stems 8 to 10 inches long. 

These flowers appear about the end of April, and when the 
wind moves the bells they present a most fascinating picture. They 
appear in colors of grey, purple, lilac and white. 

Galanthus. 

(Snowdrops). 

The first sign of approaching spring is when we greet the first 
blooms of snowdrops in our garden, for often early in March they 
greet us through the snow. Most of the bulbs no doubt are used for 
naturalizing in grass or borders or rockery, but they are equally 
beautiful and fascinating when grown in pans or pots for the dwelling 
or conservatory. 

Grown in soil or fibre and stored in the regular manner as de- 
scribed for Hyacinths or Tulips, they will bloom indoors in January 
and February, provided they were planted in September. In the 
garden I like them best, when planted under ornamental trees in great 
masses. 

Gerbera Jamesoni and Hybrids. 

(The Barberton Daisy). 

This again is not a bulbous plant, but can be shipped in dry 
roots, which accounts for its mention here. 

In a true sense it should be termed a tender perennial, but really 
can be made use of both for the conservatory or the garden. The- 
dormant roots are received in October or November and when 
wanted for conservatory should be planted in an open bench, allow- 
ing 8 to 10 inches space between each. Water should at first be given 
but sparingly until the plants show signs of flowering, when they 
must be watered freely and occasionally fed with liquid manure. A 
temperature of 60 to 65 degrees suits them best. They will flower 
uninterruptedly from February until May, and when the flowering 
period is gone water must be gradually withheld until they require 
watering but once in two weeks, simply to keep the roots alive in 
the soil. They can also be grown in pots but produce only half as 
many flowers. 

When wanted for out of door culture the following method 
should be adopted. Bury the roots when received late in fall in soil 
in the cold frame, cover with plenty of leaves, place sash on frame 
and prevent frost from entering the frame. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 65 

About May 15 remove the roots from their winter slumber and 
plant them in a well enriched garden border, giving each plant a 
foot of space. 

Soon they will grow and produce their wonderful flowers con-, 
tinuously all summer. 

Beginning September 15, withold water or better lift the plants 
with soil attached; carefully dry in the air, but do not expose to the 
frost, and then store them away again in the cold frame, as in the 
previous year. 

Gerberas, in my estimation, are the most artistic flowers known 
in the whole floral kingdom. They are extremely valuable as a cut- 
flower, for as such will often last ten days. They are a great novelty 
for the garden and will amply repay for the little trouble they cause. 

The original species appeared only in an orange scarlet, but now 
we can have them in nearly all the colors of the rainbow. 

Gladiolus Nanus. 

(A dwarf early flowering Gladiolus). 

They are popularly grown in conservatories and fully described 
under that heading, but they may also be successfully grown as a 
garden plant by setting the bulbs 4 inches deep out of doors and 
covering them with fully 6 inches of pine needles. This protection 
must be removed early in the spring and in its place should be put 
a mulch of dry manure. Treated thus they will flower early in June. 

Gladiolus Atroviolaceous. 

A wild species with deep blue flowers which, on account of its 
quick flowering qualities, is grown in conservatories for winter 
blooming. The bulbs should be planted in July or August. Its cul- 
ture is fully described in the chapter of "Growing for the Con- 
servatory." 

Gladiolus — Large Flowered. 

See chapter "Growing for the Conservatory." 

Gloriosa. 

(The Climbing African Lily). 

Used exclusively for the conservatory. 

See chapter "Growing for the Conservatory." 

Grape Hyacinths. 

(Muscari-Botryoides). 

In appearance like miniature Hyacinths, except that the bells on 
the spike do not open up. 



66 GROWING BULBS 



They are used for every conceivable purpose either in dwelling 
or conservatory and in every department of the garden. They flower 
very early and appear in blue and white. 

Helleborus Niger. 

(The Christmas Rose). 

Named from the fact that in its native country it flowers at Christ- 
mas out of doors. The foliage is very leathery, lobed and is at- 
tractive in itself. In our climate the flowers appear during February 
and March; are borne on very stout stems, single and cup shaped, of 
a white, tinted outside with either pink or purple. 

For culture, see chapter on "The Winter Garden." 
If planted in cold frames and protected with sashes, it is abso- 
lutely certain to flower. The roots arrive in November. 

Dutch Hyacinths. 

There seems to be a diversity of opinion as to the beauty of a 
Hyacinth. Such attributes as too stiff, too fat, too plump, too stat- 
uary-like or too monotonous are freely found in books dealing with 
the subject, and I have often wondered why a real lover of flowers 
could not see some beauty in all flowers and forget his personal 
antipathy. We as humans do not differ much from some of the 
flowers; not all of us are handsome yet we may have virtues totally 
overtowering all that beauty could endow us with. And so it is 
with the Hyacinth. She may not have the grace of the tulip, nor the 
elegance of the daffodil, but she possesses one virtue not shared by 
either of the others, namely, a delicious fragrance. For that, in my 
estimation, she might readily be envied by both. 

The Hyacinth attracts me to the garden, for it is the first per- 
fume of spring, and it is the only flower which can boast of the power 
of appearing in the four main colors, namely, Red, White, Blue and 
Yellow. But, apart from this sentiment, I find a distinctive beauty 
in that perfect bell, and in the artistic shades of pinks, lavender, violets 
and buffs which we cannot produce in our gardens unless we employ 
Hyacinths. There is still another reason why we should welcome 
them, for they are the first of the showy spring flowers, preceding the 
tulips and daffodils. 

Just as there is a diversity of opinion as to the beauty of this 
flower, so there is equal disagreement as to what constitutes "the ideal 
quality" of the bulbs. 

Hyacinth bulbs are offered from Holland in the following grades: 

1. Mother bulbs. 

2. Real first size. 

3. Seedsmen first size, which in reality are second size. 

4. Second size, named Bedding, which is really third size. 

5. Mixtures, which are really fourth size. 

6. Dutch Romans or Miniature. 

Mother bulbs are the exceptional mammoth bulbs, of which only 
a few are found in a field, and for which a very high price is asked, 
which is reasonable and natural. But this does not constitute a proof 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 67 



that they are the best bulbs to use, and I have the courage to say 
that they are not. Mother bulbs invariably are overgrown, and in- 
stead of producing one perfect spike, they produce two, three or 
more, but imperfect spikes, and the whole appearance of the plant 
speaks of too much prosperity. 

The perfection of a Hyacinth flower can only be produced through 
a single spike, growing erect, where every bell is perfect in outline, 
and as large as it can possibly be grown. 

Such bulbs are known as "Perfect First Size." They are sound, 
plump, heavy and sure to give satisfaction. 

Hyacinths are used not only in the garden, but they are un- 
doubtedly the most satisfactory material for pots and pans in grow- 
ing for the dwelling and conservatory. A single bulb of Hyacinths 
does not look bad in a 5-inch pot. The miniature Hyacinths are best 
grown in shallow seed pans. Hyacinths are quite successfully grown 
in fibre and also in bottles with pure water. Not all varieties will 
suit, though, for the latter purpose. 

In potting Hyacinths remove the little off-shoots at the base of 
each bulb; it will help to produce a better flower. 

Roman or French Hyacinths. 

These are not suitable for garden work, as they are not hardy, 
but are splendid for growing in pots, pans or flats in the house or 
conservatory, and by timely planting can readily be had in bloom 
by Thanksgiving. From a single bulb are produced from three to 
five graceful, slender flower stems which are dressed with loosely 
arranged medium-sized bells. Splendid for cutting and exquisitely 
scented. 

Iris. 

This is a large family and to treat it intelligently it is necessary 
for me to subdivide it into its classes. 

Bulbous Iris. 

The following belong to this class: English, Dutch and Spanish. 
They have narrow grass-like leaves and produce their flowers on 
slender, wiry stems. All three may be grown either in the conserva- 
tory or for the open garden. The culture for the former purpose 
has been fully described under its respective heading. For growing 
in the garden select a rich spot, plant the bulbs in September, allow- 
ing three to four in space between each bulb and cover with leaves 
during winter. The Dutch Iris are very similar to the Spanish Iris, 
but will flower two weeks earlier. The English Iris are not quite as 
tall, but have broader flower petals and flower long after the Spanish 
Iris, thereby extending the flowering season. Spanish Irises are a 
beautiful material for cutting, and as they are exceedingly inexpensive 
should be grown by the thousand. They usually last two years in 
the garden. 



68 GROWING BULBS 

Rhizomenous Iris. 

IRIS PUMILA. — The earliest of this class to flower, growing 
very dwarf with short leaves like that of the German Iris, with flow- 
ers very similar, appearing in early April, On account of its dwarf- 
ness it is recommended both for the rockery or as edging plant to 
hardy borders. 

IRIS GERMAN.— The well known fleur-de-lis, which is found in 
almost every garden. 

IRIS SIBERIAN. — Long, narrow leaves in dense clusters, from 
which rise far above them a great many flowers, rather small and 
narrow-petaled, but owing to its freeness of flowering it is very 
effective. 

IRIS KAEMPFERI (Japan Iris).— The most magnificent of all 
Iris and the latest to bloom. The flowers are composed of broad 
spreading petals (either three or six to a flower), and it is nothing 
unusual for a flower to measure from 8 to 10 inches across. 

All of this class are for garden use exclusively and should be 
planted in August or September for best results. All except the 
Japan Iris love a fairly dry situation, but this must have abundant 
moisture in summer, but not in winter. 

Ixia. 

Belonging to the Iris family, but the flowers have no resemblance 
to it. The upper part of a straight, wiry flower-stem 20 to 24 inches 
long is dressed with bright-colored, cup-shaped flowers facing all 
in one direction and being enhanced with attractively colored spots 
in the centre of the individual bloom., 

They are grown in conservatories exclusively and for their cul- 
ture see chapter "Growing in the conservatory. 

Lachenalia. 

A dwarf-growing pot plant, raised in a conservatory. From 
the centre of a few tulip-like leaves at the base of the plant arisesi 
a stout flower-stem which is dressed with long, drooping, tube-shaped 
flowers. See Culture, "Growing in the conservatory." 

Leucojum, see Snowflakes. 
Lilies. 

An unusually large and interesting family of flowers, upon whose 
beauties, value and culture a whole book alone could be written. 
I shall confine myself here to a list of sorts. 

1. For the dwelling. 

2. For the conservatory, (a) Fresh bulbs; (b) cold storage 
bulbs. 

3. For the garden. 

- 1. FOR THE DWELLING.— The Lilium Harrisii, or better 
known as the Bermuda Easter Lily, is the only one suited for thisi 
purpose. Plant the bulbs in August and follow culture as given for 
conservatory. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 



69 



2. FOR THE CONSERVATORY.— (a) Fresh bulbs, 
lowing varieties are usually grown under glass: 



The fol- 



Season of Planting 

Lilium Harrisii August 

" Longiflorum (Bermuda) " 

" Longiflorum (Japan) September 

" Formosum " 

" Long. Giganteum October 

Multiflorum 

Plentiflorum 

" Candidum September 

" Auratum November 

" Speciosum Album " 

Roseum " 

Rubrum " 

Melpomene " 

Magnificum " 

(b.) Cold Storage Bulbs. 

Lilium Long. Giganteum 

Auratum 

Speciosum Album 



See culture as 



R— " 1- firior°x 






Rubrum . . . 
Melpomene 
Magnificum 



Conservatory. 



3. FOR THE GARDEN.— In growing lilies out of doors, we 
should provide above all a good rich soil with perfect drainage. The 
former is easy to provide, but the latter requires careful attention, for 
with most lilies it is even necessary to provide the drainage close to 
the bulb, and this is accomplished by enveloping the entire bulb in 
sand. Certain bulbs of lilies show the spot where the flower spike was 
the year previous, and such bulbs are best planted on the side; other 
bulbs have a loose formation of scales, and these are also best planted 
on the side. Some of our native lilies, like Lilium Superbum and 
Lilium Canadense, love moisture and partial shade, and for this rea- 
son may be used for naturalizing on the outskirts of woods or in 
plantings of Rhododendrons. All lilies love a cool soil, and this can 
be produced by covering the surface with 3 inches of leaf-mould. 
Lilium Auratum of late years is much infested with a disease, which 
accounts for its short life and indifferent success. The following list 
can be relied upon to succeed in most parts of this country: 



70 



GROWING BULBS 



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THE FAMILY OF BULBS 71 

Lily of the Valley. 

Too popular and well known to require description. The culture 
for the dwelling or conservatory has been fully described under the 
respective headings. The outdoor culture of this flower has not been 
mentioned previously and requires a little more detail. 

For this purpose purchase field-grown clumps and not pips, 
as they are far less expensive and are better adapted for natural 
appearance of the bed. Clumps when set out should not be set more 
than two inches below the surface. They should be covered with sand 
or sandy loam instead of with regular garden soil, and leaves should 
be heaped over a new planting. Plant in November if the clumps, 
are imported, or in October if home-grown. Select a shady spot 
and, if possible, plant Colchicums between them so as to have a 
double flowering season in the same spot. 

Musk Hyacinths. 

(Muscari Moschatum.) 

A miniature species with yellowish flowers, possessing a strong 
scent of musk. They may be grown in pots for the dwelling or in 
gardens, as they are perfectly hardy. 

Muscari. 

A group of spring flowering bulbs with close clusters of small 
bells on six-inch stems, which have earned for them the commoa 
names of "Grape Hyacinths," "Feathered Hyacinths" and "Musk Hya- 
cinths." See their description under these common names. 

Montbretias. 

August flowering, sun-loving bulbs in shades of yellow, orange 
and red. Their fine foliage and shape of flower make them appear' 
like miniature Gladiolii. The free flowered lasting arching sprays 
produce a most effective picture in the border or open garden. Plants 
grow from two to three feet high. They must be planted in masses 
of one color to be effective. Plant bulbs in October, two to three 
inches deep, and cover with leaves. I do not suggest growing them 
in pots, but prefer them in the garden only, 

Narcissii, see Daffodils. 



Nerine. 



A species of Amaryllis, grown exclusively in the conservatory. 
The flowers, which appear without foliage late in the fall, are proH 
duced in whorls on a straight leafless stalk 18 inches high. For cul- 
ture see "Growing in the Conservatory." 



72 GROWING BULBS 



Ornithogallum. 

A native hardy bulb better known as Star of Bethlehem. Be- 
tween a great cluster of grassy leaves appear the numerous bright), 
star-shaped white flowers early in May. They are used in garden 
for naturalizing. 

Oxalis. 

A popular pot plant grown for the dwelling. The branches 
being of drooping nature it is invariably seen growing in a hanging 
basket. As its culture is quite distinct from all others, it was not 
mentioned previously. Secure your bulbs in July or August (not 
later) and of all varieties except the "Bermuda Buttercup" plant a 
dozen bulbs in a six-inch pot; of the latter only four. After potting 
bring right to the dwelling and place in indirect light until the first 
growth appears, after which full light must be given. Grow always 
cool. The mistake that is usually made is keeping the pots in dark 
storage, which invariably spells failure. 

Paeonies. 

A hardy perennial plant for the garden and one of the most lovely 
and showy. It is so well known that no further description is neces- 
sary, but I believe a few points about its culture might be of interest. 

First. — Paeonies should only be planted in the fall between Sep- 
tember and November. 

Second. — They require a sunny location and should receive a lib- 
eral supply of stable manure about 12 inches below the root. 

Third. — The crown of the root should not be more than three 
inches below the surface. 

Fourth. — If a growing plant is set out now it might be left undis- 
turbed in the ground for seven years. After that it should be lifted 
every third year and divided into four each time. 

Pushkinnias. 

If of all the bulbs for growing in masses in the garden I could 
have but one, I should surely choose the "Puschkinnia," for its color 
is most lovely, a delicate clear sky-blue, which the Hollander describes 
as delft-blue. The whole plant reminds you of a miniature hyacinth 
with hundreds of blossoms on a stalk. The many flowers require a 
long time to develop, which produces a longer flowering season for 
this plant. In the past it has been my good fortune to do a great 
deal to introduce this flower in this country, and yet I am sure there 
are millions of flower lovers here who have never heard of it. Just 
try it and sing its praise to others. They are the most inexpensive 
bulbs on the market, costing less than a cent a piece. 

Ranunculus (Bulbous). 

The class called "Turban" is the best of all and more popularly 
used. These French Buttercups with large double flowers in all colors 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 7^ 

remind you almost of roses. They are only suitable for growing in 
a cold frame or conservatory. See their culture in the preceding 
chapters. 

Sternbergia. 

A variety of Amaryllis classed amongst "Fall Flowering Bulbs." 
In form it is exactly like a Fairy Lily, in color it is golden yellow. 
The bulbs are planted in the garden in September, the flowers appear 
in October and the foliage the following spring. Select a sheltered 
nook and protect the bulbs with leaves during the winter. 

Scilla. 

An extensive family of bulbous flowers which are mostly used for 
the garden, but may also be grown in pans for the dwelling. In order 
to explain the uses of each class it is necessary to recall them. 

SCILLA SIBERICA.— Commonly called Blue Squill, used in 
lawns, rockeries, woodlands and borders. Appears in blue and white. 

SCILLA BIFOLIA.— Almost identical to the foregoing. 

SCILLA CAMPANULATA.— Known as Wood Hyacinths, being 
much taller and having flowers more like Hyacinths. Used almost 
entirely for naturalizing in woods or hardy borders. 

SCILLA NUTANS.— The common Bluebell for woodland plant- 
ing. In form similar to Campanulata. 

Sauramatum. 

See Callas and "Growing as Air Plant." 

Schizostylis Coccinea. 

(Kaffir Lily.) 

Grown exclusively for the conservatory, as it is not hardy here. 
Plant six roots in a six-inch pot late in the fall and keep them grow- 
ing continuously. The flower-spikes, growing two feet high, bear a 
number of scarlet lily-like flowers the following year. 

Snowdrops, see Galanthus. 
Snowflakes. 

(Leucojum.) 

Just an enlarged Snowdrop, but appearing at different seasons. 
L. Vernum flowers in April, L. Aestivum during May and June, and 
L. Autumnale in the autumn. They are dainty for rockeries and 
borders. 

Spirea. 

(Astilbe.) 

Not really a bulbous plant, but offered in all bulb books, which 
accounts for its mention here. It is utilized in two ways: 



74 GROWING BULBS 



1. As a conservatory plant; see culture under that heading. 

2. As a hardy perennial for the border. In both instances it 
should be planted in November, as the flowers appear late in May. 

From the centre of a graceful spreading foliage which remains 
within two feet of the ground arise a number of wiry, straight stems 
four feet high, which branch freely, producing enormous sprays of 
plume-like flowers. 

Trillium. 

(Wood Lily.) 

Especially recommended for hardy border or Woodland plant- 
ing. Almost the first thing to flower in the woods. The large saucer- 
shaped white flowers are very attractive and the whole plant grows 
only about six inches high. 

Trollius. 

(Double Buttercup.) 

A hardy perennial suitable for borders, rockeries, woodlands or 
brooksides. The perfect globe-shaped double flowers in yellow or 
golden are the glow of the garden toward the end of May. The roots 
should be planted in October. 

Tropaeolum. 

A slender vine grown exclusively for conservatories. Fully de- 
scribed in one of the preceding chapters. 

Tulips. 

The word alone is sufficient to recall to our minds all the visions 
of gay loveliness which one can only experience at sight of a glorious 
display of tulips. Their use through proper selection extends into 
every department of gardening and so we must consider them in order 
to make intelligent selection for the purpose in mind. 

GROWING FOR THE DWELLING.— (a) Single Early Tulips: 
Not all varieties are suitable for this purpose, but a great many are. 
If your bulb book does not give you this information, let your seeds- 
man suggest, for he knows which are best for you. This suggestion 
also holds good with all the other types mentioned here, (b) Double 
Early Tulip, (c) Darwin Tulips. 

GROWING FOR THE CONSERVATORY.— All of the fore- 
going. 

GROWING FOR THE GARDEN.— Every variety you will find 
offered. 

FOR THE HARDY BORDER.— Darwin Tulips, Cottage Garden 
Tulips, Breeders, Bizzarres, Rembrandt, Bybloemen, Parrots and 
species. 

FOR THE ROCKERY.— All the species, for they love such a sit- 
uation. 

FOR THE MEADOWS.— Tulipa Sylvestris. 

FOR THE WOODS.— Nearly all of the species. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 75 



THE CLASSES OF TULIPS. 
Darwin Tulips. 

The Tulip of Today and the Tulip of Tomorrow. 

No other bulbous flower was ever received with greater acclaim 
than truly this "Queen of All Tulips." In her royal splendor she out- 
shines all her companions, and with her majestic appearance she wms 
the admiration of all flower lovers and instant approval of those who 
see it for the first time. 

"Darwins" are a class of Tulips which flower long after the other 
tulips have flowered, and in the vicinity of New York are at their best 
between May 15th and May 30th. They are slow in developing and, 
therefore, last much longer. The truly gigantic flowercups are borne 
on stout, straight stems, which rise far above a broad foliage and which 
uncommonly attain a height of two to three feet. The flowers are 
unicolored and have as their charm a base of a different color. To 
step into the garden at the noon hour and peek into the cups of Dar- 
win Tulips is a feast to the eye, wondrous to behold, never to be for- 
gotten. In the garden they may be planted as regiments in massive 
beds, but more artistically in proper color arrangement in irregular 
groupings as a ribbon to shrub borders or as clumps in hardy borders. 
They are hardy and may be left in the ground for at least three years 
in succession. To take their place during summer while they are dor- 
mant sow Lavatera in their place after the flowers have gone by, and 
they can then be left undisturbed while no vacancy is formed by their 
sleep. 

For pot culture they are splendid and are just the ideal Tulip to 
grow for Easter. 

Rembrandt Tulips. 

This new class of late Tulips is an offspring of the Darwins. They 
are identical in character, forms, habits and other virtues, and differ 
only in one feature, namely, in colorings. All flowers are either 
striped, feathered, blotched or penciled and are wonderfully beautiful. 

In massive clumps in front of shrubbery they are a picture and 
for cut purposes they excel all other Tulips. 

Cottage or May Flowering Tulips. 

A class of Tulips which are fairly tall, are massive in texture, pro- 
duce enormously large flowers and appear just previous to the Dar- 
wins. They may be used for garden bedding or shrubbery. In this 
class we have all colors and shades, and for this reason many varieties 
can be used advantageously in blending with Darwin Tulips to create 
artistic color blendings. 

Breeder Tulips. 

Breeder Tulips are a class of out-door Tulips which flower as 
late as the Darwins, which have tall stems and noble large elongated 



U GROWING BULBS 



flowers of solid art shades, such as purple, maroon, terra cotta, buff 
and bronze, and as a companion to the gay Cottage Tulips they are 
unsurpassable. The gardener who loves rare colors in flowers will 
appreciate these lovely beauties. 

Bizarre Tulips. 

One of the oldest races of Tulips grown extensively in France and 
Holland in the beginning of the seventeenth century, and this class 
was responsible for the famous Tulip craze in 1635. They are all 
queerly striped and variegated, flower late on tall stems and all have 
dark stripes on yellow ground. 

Rose Bybloemen Tulips. 

These are very similar to the foregoing, except that the flowers 
have rose stripes on a white ground. 

Violet Bybloemen Tulips. 

Exactly like the preceding class, but the flowers have violet stripes 
on white ground. 

Parrot Tulips. 

A very interesting class of Tulips. Their name has been derived 
from the colorings of the flowers. They are late in blooming and 
have flowers v/ith cut and fringed petals. While the flowers are large, 
the tall, slender stems are not stout enough to support them, and for 
this reason they are best suited for the shrub or hardy border. Parrot 
Tulips can never be guaranteed a flower to every bulb, and on account 
of this should be planted thickly in masses. 

Single Early Tulips. 

The gayest of our garden flowers in the early spring. They are 
used to produce a blaze of blossom for two weeks toward the latter 
part of April and beginning of May. They are planted by themselves 
as regiments, and when they have passed by they are taken up to make 
room for our summer flowers. 

This treatment pays no heed to their individual beauty or form. 
Each plant is considered only as contributing to a great mass of color, 
and certainly these masses of color are very splendid. 

They are now so plentiful and inexpensive that every garden can 
be made glorious with little outlay. 

For growing in pots for house blooming during the winter 
months this class surpasses all others, and certain varieties are espe- 
cially suited for this purpose. 

Some of the older sorts, such as "Artus," "Jagt von Delft" and 
others have outlived their usefulness and should not be offered any 
more. 



THE FAMILY OF BULBS 11 



Double Early Tulips. 

Double Tulips follow the single Tulips in time of blooming, extend 
the flowering season and last much longer in bloom. Some of the 
newer sorts are equal to the choicest paeonies^and the writer haS) 
often wondered why such magnificent flowers shoul Q ' ^ ' lut be found 
in every better garden. Many a morning I have spent in silent admi- 
ration gazing at these beauties and watching them spread their petals 
to unfold their grandeur. How well I was repaid for my patience! 

We all see much grace in single flowers, but nevertheless I revere 
the double Tulip when it revels in its blaze of glory. 

Species of Tulips. 

Exquisite for their dainty or rich color, their fantastic or rather 
artistic form and their peculiar charms. Interesting because they are 
natives of Asia Minor and Central Asia, and found there in the valleys 
and on the slopes. Valuable because they constitute one of the har- 
diest classes of TuHps and, therefore, are ideal for hardy borders, rock- 
eries, woods or naturalizing. The petals are usually pointed or re- 
flexed. The foliage differs materially from the regular kinds, as some 
are almost threadlike. Easy of cultivation, and where ideal conditions 
exist they v/ill readily increase and be permanent. 

The following varieties I recommend: 

AUSTRALIS. — Yellow shaded brown, sweet scented. 

CLUSIANA. — One of the daintiest colored and most useful Tu- 
lips. The slender stem grows 10 to 12 inches long and carries a long, 
narrow, lily-Hke flower of a delicate pink, broadly margined white; 
inside pure white with violet base. For cutting I do not know of a 
more exquisite flower or one which would produce a more charming 
effect. Can be readily forced. 

CORNUTA. — Narrow twisted flower petals of red and yellow; 
very odd and artistic. 

FLORENTINA ODORATA (SYLVESTRIS).— Pure yellow, 
drooping flowers. Exceedingly fragrant and known also as the sweet 
wild English Tulip, Fine for naturalizing. 

FOSTERIANA.— Brilliant vermillion scarlet. Center marked yel- 
lov/ or black. Enormous flowers with long pointed petals. A very 
striking new species from Bokhara. Flowers late in April. 

GALATICA. — Light yellow with a bright green base. 

GREIGII. — A very conspicuous flower of orange scarlet, some- 
times showing a tone of deep yellow. Foliage spotted with dark 
brown. Rather uncertain as to blooming. 

KAUFMANNIANA.— Palest primrose tinged rosy red on outside. 
Enormous flower of handsome form with broad, reflexing petals. The 
earliest of all Tulips, flowering late in March, 

LINIFOLIA. — Small flowers of brilliant vermillion with extremely 
narrow willow leaf-like foliage; very interesting. 

LOWNEI. — Delicate pink with yellow base; a most curious form. 
Splendid for rockery. 

MARJOLETTI.— Pale yellow, shaded red at base. Small, but 
elegant flower. 



78 



GROWING BULBS 



MAURIANA. — Glowing scarlet, yellow base. From middle till 
end of May. 

OCULIS SOLIS (COTTON TULIP).— Vermillion, bordered yel- 
lo^v l3l3.ck bs^^i 

'PRAESaiiks (SUA V EOLENS).— Brilliant vermillion scarlet; 
three to.ftv^^^|UipM0inNPtem. 

_J||||-^iB(^£l^d<L— -Mrs. Francis King in her description of this 
flower says: "While among the yellow Tulips, Sprengeri, the latest of 
all Tulips ito%loom, must not be overlooked. To be sure it is not a 
yellow ;*Tt -Is Tin orange scarlet and thereby related to the yellows. 
This Tulip I have growing among close packed roots of a pearl-gray 
German Iris. The two come into flower simultaneously. The Tulip 
is quite as tall as the Iris and the two flowers are strikingly good to- 
gether. Sprengeri grows taller with me than any other Tulip. It is a 
persistent grower, too, appearing year after year as do almost no 
others." 

TUBERGENIANA.— One of the largest flowered Tulips in exist- 
ence. Brilliant vermillion with sharply defined black base. The flow- 
ers resemble a monstrous red lily and when seen at noon present a 
most marvelous sight. Flowers about May 15th and is showy among 
lower evergreens. Height, 14 inches. 

TURKESTANICA.— White, with many flowers on a stem. 

VIRIDIFLORA (THE GREEN TULIP).— Flowers green edged 
yellow; large, odd and handsome. 



Watsonia. 

Can only be grown in a cool conservatory. In appearance it is 
very much like a gladiolus. For its culture see "Growing for the 
Conservatory." 




X 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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